Platinum Grows Up

August 1998


Platinum Grows Up

Contemporary styling leads the way as the great platinum experiment lands solidly in the jewelry mainstream

Jewelry historians will remember years from now that contemporary American-designed platinum truly came into its own in 1998. The experimentation of the early '90s is over and the market is jumping with mature ideas, salable designs and a wide selection.

"Even last year, I was seeing the same thing from the same people," says Lisa Labrado, design and marketing expert for the Platinum Guild International USA Jewelry, Newport Beach, CA. "This year, there are so many new styles by established designers and new names that it's hard to keep up."

Though many designers continue to be fascinated with gem-intensive styles, the biggest excitement is in contemporary styling, says Labrado. "Anything non-traditional – funky, hip and cool – is selling." Labrado is quick to point out she doesn't mean so funky it won't sell in a jewelry store. "The styles have enough classic touches they'll endure for long-term wear."

Labrado says almost all currently popular design motifs are showing up in contemporary platinum jewelry design also – often interpreted in original ways. One standout, she says, is romantic styling spurred by the clothing fashion world's fascination with vintage looks.

Designers such as Neil Amrani of Man-Am Creations, Tappan, NY, noticed this fascination and created a vintage jewelry line with a very contemporary look. The line, Neil Amrani Platinum by Man-Am, reflects the new generation's fascination with platinum's past – and its future. For Amrani, it was partially inspiration from his father, Manny, who for years has produced classic vintage styles in the Man-Am line. "I kept wondering how we could use the interest in platinum and vintage to create a very 21st century look that has substance and style." The new line was his answer.

What goes around comes around. From contemporary to romantic, the latest platinum jewelry appeals not only to younger brides and Gen X shoppers, but also to middle-aged women who are definitely not getting stodgy about jewelry in their middle years. "Baby Boomers and older women are just as likely to buy contemporary styles as the younger generation," says Labrado.

For jewelers who sell platinum, that's a market with legs on it to spare.

– by Peggy Jo Donahue and
Lorraine Suermann

Sleek woven platinum bangles are capped in platinum or 18k gold.
Henderson Designs Ltd., Charlotte, NC; (800) 566-2300.

To every heart there is a key; these key pendants are crafted in platinum and feature diamond and gold accents.
Verragio Fine Jewelry Designs, New York City; (800) VERRAGIO or (212) 840-5895, fax (212) 354-4544.

Platinum French wire back earrings and matching pendant feature diamonds wrapped in 18k gold bezels. The pendant hangs from a platinum round omega. Suggested retail, $1,670 (earrings) and $1,130 (pendant).
Vielle Fine Jewelry Inc., New York City; (212) 730-2602, fax (212) 730-2604.

Platinum necklaces feature large open links. Suggested retail, $4,500.
Design Gold Ltd., Hollywood, FL; (800) 543-8901 or (954) 921-8900.

Platinum and 18k cuff link and tuxedo stud set is designed for special occasions. Suggested retail, $800 for the cuff links, $980 for the studs.
Grando, Los Angeles, CA; (213) 629-3009, fax (213) 629-1621.

Platinum ring with 22k gold inlay holds 0.48 carat of DEF/VVS Lazare Kaplan Ideal Cut diamonds. Suggested retail, $3,450.
Zoltan David Designer/Goldsmith, Austin, TX; (512) 257-1290, fax (512) 257-1295.

950 platinum and 18k gold band with a sandblasted finish gets some sparkle from 1.0 carat of burnish-set diamonds. Suggested retail, $2,700.
GD Platinum Inc., Los Angeles, CA; (213) 489-2343, fax (213) 489-3113.

Diamonds and sapphire are set in platinum in this ensemble from the Effy Collection.
BITA Collections Inc., New York City; (212) 840-0022, fax (212) 840-1686.

Platinum wave bands are set with 1.20 carats of pavé diamonds and sapphire, ruby, emerald or diamond baguette accents.
Precision Set, Dallas, TX; (800) 446-5693 or (214) 739-5691, fax (214) 739-5694.

 Handcrafted in platinum, this scepter stick pin is adorned with 1.54 carats of diamonds and features hand-bent wires and handmade chain. Suggested retail, $7,400.
Michael B, Studio City, CA; (800) 969-9949, fax (818) 769-0028.



 Platinum and 18k gold ring has six bezel-set diamonds weighing 0.76 carat. Suggested retail, $2,900.
Conviser's, Miami, FL; (800) 327-5684 or (305) 374-8699, fax (305) 374-7850.

Platinum bracelet cradles 20.93 carats of diamonds and 10.88 carats of cabochon sapphires. Suggested retail, $76,000.
Siera Jewelry, Los Angeles, CA; (213) 623-6370, fax (213) 623-1302.

Rubies, emeralds, sapphires and diamonds rest in platinum and 18k gold rings.
Harry Le Beau, Philadelphia, PA; (800) 908-7338 or (215) 925-4658, fax (215) 925-1585.

Handcrafted platinum jewelry has a contemporary look with clean, classic lines. Drop hoop earrings with tension-held closures are $368 keystone.
Ed Levin, Cambridge, NY; (800) 828-1122 or (518) 677-8595, fax (888) 677-8597.

Antique-inspired platinum ring holds 0.42 carat of diamonds and is $2,350 suggested retail.
Man-Am Creations Ltd.,Tappan, NY; (800) 8-MAN-AM7 or (914) 365-2846, fax (914) 365-3105.

Contemporary platinum pendant holds a 0.50-ct. diamond in its bezel. Suggested retail, $3,699.
Universal Fine Jewelry, Los Angeles, CA; (213) 622-7234, fax (213) 622-7542.

Dancing diamonds are trapped in crystal within a platinum heart frame.
A. LeVian, New York City; (212) 575-0318, fax (212) 944-7734.

Iris earrings and necklace are crafted in platinum with diamond centers.
Suna Bros. Inc., New York City; (800) 456-SUNA or (212) 869-5670, fax (212) 869-5922.

Platinum and 18k gold necklace from the Tension Collection is available in 14k and 18k and can be set with a diamond weighing 0.15 to 1 carat. Suggested retail, $1,160-$1,400 without diamonds.
Gelin & Abaci Inc., Los Angeles, CA; (800) 545-8545 or (213) 488-9904, fax (213) 488-0881.

Platinum and 22k gold antique-inspired earrings hang from a French wire back and feature 0.65 carat of diamonds.
Tacori, Los Angeles, CA; (800) 421-9844 or (213) 488-0692, fax (213) 488-0635.

Earrings feature eight quarter-moon-shaped diamonds weighing 0.97 carat. Suggested retail, $4,900. The matching pendant has four quarter-moon-shaped diamonds weighing 0.48 carat and hangs from a platinum chain. Suggested retail for the pendant only, $2,400.
Barnett Robinson Inc., New York City; (800) 223-0240 or (212) 682-1086, fax (212) 682-1848.

Platinum hinged hoop earrings feature diamond pavé.
Jamms, New York City; (212) 564-5211.

Pavé and platinum lend a classic look to this earring and ring ensemble. The ring holds 3.13 carats of diamonds and is $8,300 suggested retail. The earrings have 4.21 carats of diamonds and are $10,500.
Pe Jay Creations Ltd., New York City; (800) 292-1998 or (212) 807-7260, fax (212) 807-9549.

Yellow sapphire and marquise diamonds glisten in this platinum ring.
Jewels by Star, New York City; (800) 223-2277 or (212) 308-3494, fax (212) 486-0140.

Platinum bracelet features 1.52 carats of princess-cut diamonds. Suggested retail, $3,000.
Perrier Gem, New York City; (800) 9-PERRIER or (212) 826-6688, fax (212) 888-0086.
Platinum and 18k gold bracelet is adorned with diamond accents.
Henry Designs Studio Inc., New York City; (212) 840-0210.

Copyright © 1998 by Bond Communications.


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