Professional Insider: Fashion
Glamour sweeps away the minimalism of the
by Adrienne Weinfeld-Berg
The spring-summer ready-to-wear collections marked a momentous change
in the fashion ethos. There is a new order - new designers served up myriad
fresh looks and attitudes. The minimalism that has so closely defined the
1990s has begun to fade. A new kind of glamour, femininity and opulence
are evident on both sides of the Atlantic, bringing forth buzzwords like
Maximalism and Sweet Individuality. Sweetness replaces Edgy and there is
a strong hunger for happiness, according to many of the young designers
shaping the changing face of fashion.
Jewelry on the Runways
Extravagance is once again making news. After a decade of dressing down,
excess is starting to look exciting. The Diana Effect takes hold. There
is more visual stimulation, more variety, more expensive clothing paired
with all kinds of fine jewels.
More luxury jewelry and accessories were worn on nearly every runway
this season. The jewelry came from a broader range of new and high-profile
U.S. and European designers than seen in previous seasons.
- Look for estate and vintage-look jewelry to be strong with this season's
- Matte, brushed, hammered or polished silver or gold next to assortments
of white, black, silver and abalone pearls and key diamond pieces.
- Big, bold and eclectic are the buzzwords. Mix, match and layer wrapped
necklaces, chokers, bracelets, cuffs, bangles and rings in chunky amber,
deepest turquoise, jade, agate, carnelian, malachite and onyx.
Black and white South Sea pearl necklaces are worn with
matching diamond and pearl earrings from Harry Winston. Donald Deal white
Fred Leighton's million-dollar Tudor Rose brooch, originally
part of the French Crown Jewels, makes a spectacular showing on the finale
gown from Oscar de la Renta's spring collection. The designer used an impressive
array of estate pieces on day and evening clothes.
Diamond necklace, earrings and bracelet are from Harry
Winston. Strapless shirred white crepe gown by Donald Deal.
EXOTIC ORIGINS: COLOR IS BACK
Inspiration from far-off lands and ethnic elements in prints, pattern
and colors. There's a new sparkle from sequins, pailettes, flocked glitter
and beads as embossed, beaded and knitted lacy effects lend texture. Color
returns to designers' palettes - especially shades of blue.
Wrapped aventurine choker and matching drop earrings are
from McCall Alcantara for Mary McFadden Couture. Rust batik quilted tunic
with mint chiffon sarong is from Mary McFadden Couture.
Wrapped turquoise nugget choker with gold leather and purple
feathers is worn with matching 23k gold leaf and turquoise drop earrings
from McCall Alcantara for Mary McFadden Couture. Re-embroidered gold mesh
tunic is from Mary McFadden Couture.
Looks We Like
Fashion newcomer Pixie Yates' use of more than 50 carats of diamonds
on Ivanka Trump ...
Zang Toi's wide array of sparkling diamond items from Van Cleef &
John Galliano's "La Belle Epoque" collection for Christian
Dior emphasized long gold earrings, big pins, layered white pearls, and
wrapped gold necklaces and bracelets.
Mary McFadden's mystical "Empire of the Incas" grouping married
clothing rendered in richly colored, hand-painted fabrics, gold beading,
embroidery, tulle and macramé with intricate turquoise, coral and
jade chokers and long necklaces.
Christian Lacroix used an eclectic mix of crystals and sterling silver
chain mail across his signature clothing collection. Opulent gold and multicolored
stone and bead chokers, hoop earrings, cocktail rings and bracelets tied
Gianni Versace served up slinky crystal mesh bandeaus plus a section
of evening gowns dotted with glittering jet beading and all kinds of stones.
At Dolce & Gabbana, whose 1980 collection of outrageous stone and bead-encrusted
bustiers made worldwide headlines, crystal mesh dresses and miniskirts were
key.Copyright © 1998 by Bond Communications.