Professional Insider: Fashion

ABSOLUTELY FABULOUS

Glamour sweeps away the minimalism of the '90s

by Adrienne Weinfeld-Berg

 

The spring-summer ready-to-wear collections marked a momentous change in the fashion ethos. There is a new order - new designers served up myriad fresh looks and attitudes. The minimalism that has so closely defined the 1990s has begun to fade. A new kind of glamour, femininity and opulence are evident on both sides of the Atlantic, bringing forth buzzwords like Maximalism and Sweet Individuality. Sweetness replaces Edgy and there is a strong hunger for happiness, according to many of the young designers shaping the changing face of fashion.

 

Jewelry on the Runways

Extravagance is once again making news. After a decade of dressing down, excess is starting to look exciting. The Diana Effect takes hold. There is more visual stimulation, more variety, more expensive clothing paired with all kinds of fine jewels.

More luxury jewelry and accessories were worn on nearly every runway this season. The jewelry came from a broader range of new and high-profile U.S. and European designers than seen in previous seasons.

Jewelry Trends

• Look for estate and vintage-look jewelry to be strong with this season's romantic clothes.
• Matte, brushed, hammered or polished silver or gold next to assortments of white, black, silver and abalone pearls and key diamond pieces.
• Big, bold and eclectic are the buzzwords. Mix, match and layer wrapped necklaces, chokers, bracelets, cuffs, bangles and rings in chunky amber, deepest turquoise, jade, agate, carnelian, malachite and onyx.

Black and white South Sea pearl necklaces are worn with matching diamond and pearl earrings from Harry Winston. Donald Deal white crepe dress.	Fred Leighton's million-dollar Tudor Rose brooch, originally part of the French Crown Jewels, makes a spectacular showing on the finale gown from Oscar de la Renta's spring collection. The designer used an impressive array of estate pieces on day and evening clothes.
Diamond necklace, earrings and bracelet are from Harry Winston. Strapless shirred white crepe gown by Donald Deal.

EXOTIC ORIGINS: COLOR IS BACK

Inspiration from far-off lands and ethnic elements in prints, pattern and colors. There's a new sparkle from sequins, pailettes, flocked glitter and beads as embossed, beaded and knitted lacy effects lend texture. Color returns to designers' palettes - especially shades of blue.

Wrapped aventurine choker and matching drop earrings are from McCall Alcantara for Mary McFadden Couture. Rust batik quilted tunic with mint chiffon sarong is from Mary McFadden Couture.

Wrapped turquoise nugget choker with gold leather and purple feathers is worn with matching 23k gold leaf and turquoise drop earrings from McCall Alcantara for Mary McFadden Couture. Re-embroidered gold mesh tunic is from Mary McFadden Couture.

Looks We Like

Fashion newcomer Pixie Yates' use of more than 50 carats of diamonds on Ivanka Trump ...

Zang Toi's wide array of sparkling diamond items from Van Cleef & Arpels ...

John Galliano's "La Belle Epoque" collection for Christian Dior emphasized long gold earrings, big pins, layered white pearls, and wrapped gold necklaces and bracelets.

Mary McFadden's mystical "Empire of the Incas" grouping married clothing rendered in richly colored, hand-painted fabrics, gold beading, embroidery, tulle and macramé with intricate turquoise, coral and jade chokers and long necklaces.

Christian Lacroix used an eclectic mix of crystals and sterling silver chain mail across his signature clothing collection. Opulent gold and multicolored stone and bead chokers, hoop earrings, cocktail rings and bracelets tied everything together.

Gianni Versace served up slinky crystal mesh bandeaus plus a section of evening gowns dotted with glittering jet beading and all kinds of stones. At Dolce & Gabbana, whose 1980 collection of outrageous stone and bead-encrusted bustiers made worldwide headlines, crystal mesh dresses and miniskirts were key.