Timepieces:Education & Repair
Attaching the Bracelet Part 1: The Spring Bar
Quickly solving a common request can earn customer loyalty
By David Christianson,
Certified Master Watchmaker
One of the most common tasks in any jewelry store is reattaching a customer's
watch bracelet to the case. You should know how to perform this task whether
your customer has chosen a new bracelet or strap or you are repairing one
that is broken or loose.
The band usually is attached with a push pin called a spring bar. Each
end of the bar collapses inward under pressure and then extends when placed
into the holes of the watch case lugs. The lugs are the two metal or plastic
"legs" that protrude from each end of the watch case.
Check the Lug Holes
Often these holes need to be cleaned. Bracelets loosen as the lug hole fills
with grime and dirt during everyday wear. These holes need to be clean before
any new spring bar and strap can be attached. Pull out your small screwdriver
set and select one with a blade just slightly smaller than the diameter
of the lug hole. Place the blade in the holes and rotate the screwdriver
to remove grime. If needed, press down to be sure the hole is deep enough
to hold the new spring bar.
Before replacing the old spring bar, be aware many types are available.
Perhaps the bracelet loosened because the spring bar was not the correct
size or diameter in the first place. Your customer may have bought a replacement
band elsewhere that was fitted with thin or weak bars that "telescope"
to fit nearly any case size. You'll do best by your customer if you replace
these bars with stronger ones that fit properly. Neither you nor your customer
wants the problem to recur in six months.
Bars are sold in different sizes and styles. Generally, heavy watches
require heavier spring bars. Choose the largest diameter that fits snugly
through the end of the bracelet or strap. For length, find the longest bar
that still fits between the lugs. To do this, measure the lug distance with
calipers. Then measure the spring bar from one extended end to the end of
the solid central piece.
Note whether the bracelet or strap is sized incorrectly, and warn your
customer about the possibility of future problems if appropriate. Often,
the strap is too narrow or the spring bar is too short. This places too
much pressure on both ends of the spring bar. Suggest the correct size strap
or bracelet or replace it yourself if requested (see next month's column
for sizing suggestions).
Remove the Bar
To remove the spring bar, use a common spring bar tool (available from watch
supply houses), a knife blade or a sharp screwdriver. Slide the blade between
the lug and the band and retract the bar enough to free it from the lug.
Push with a finger as you retract the spring bar.
Sometimes the tight space between lug and bracelet makes this operation
difficult. A thin saw blade can cut the bar quickly. However, never use
nippers to cut the spring bar on bracelets or bands that are attached to
the watch because the lugs might break in the process.
Again, check with your materials supplier, watchband maker or the watch
supplier for tools specific to the type of watches or bands you carry and
keep these at your repair desk.
Replace the Bar
Insert one end into the clean lug hole as you hold the strap or bracelet
in place. Hold the other retracted side next to the knife or tool you're
using. Carefully and steadily slide the end of the bar from the tool into
the lug hole or just near it. Use finger pressure to hold the strap or bracelet
in position. Adjust the bar end to snap into place with your tool blade.
If the end of a metal band is narrower than the lug opening, the spring
bars will break repeatedly.
Part II: Sizing the Bracelet
David A. Christianson is the fourth-generation owner of Christianson
Jewelry, Kendallville, IN. He is a director and first vice president of
the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute, a certified master watchmaker
and a fellow of the British Horological Society. He discusses watch repair
in this column each month. Send questions, suggestions and comments toProfessional
Jeweler,1500 Walnut St., Suite 1200, Philadelphia, PA 19102; e-mail to
Copyright © 1998 by Bond Communications.