Professional Insider:Trend Spotting
The fall/winter 1998 designer collections get jeweled
BY ADRIENNE WEINFELD-BERG
The recent American collections, shown during Fashion Week in New York,
focused on a plethora of riches when it came to clothing and fabulous jewels.
Luxuriant sportswear, featuring long, longer and longest skirts and pants
worn with all kinds of mohair, alpaca, cashmere and fine wool elongated
sweaters (the big fashion item of the season) took on an extra dollop of
opulence with fur trims and layers of gold, platinum or sterling silver
necklaces and bracelets.
Pearls were everywhere, in every length, size and color. Evening gowns
and dresses, as defined by the look of the early 1900 Orientalists to the
1920s flapper through to the minimalist 1990s, sparkled with beading, embroidery
and intricate jeweling.
The must-haves of the moment for night are elaborate chokers, sometimes
worn with long strands of plain and mixed jewels and pearls, large embellished
earrings, brooches, bracelets and cocktail rings. Here's a quick read of
the best and brightest fashion and jewelry trends just in time for the new
Historically, artists and designers review one century as they prepare
for the next one, lovingly recalling and re-creating the past. So it was
this season. The feeling of the 1900s and memories of the Titanic showed
the start of the key trend toward long, floor-sweeping skirts, luxury tops
and jewels everywhere. The '40s brought us back to Hollywood-style movie
star glamour, the '60s gave us Emma Peel in "The Avengers" lookalikes.
Of course, jewelry followed suit. There were wrapped torsades and chokers,
multicolored rings in every size and every kind of stone and metal and pearls,
pearls and more pearls.
| Kenneth Jay Lane's Byzantine-inspired gold coin chokers accent this
glamourous ankle-length gown by Fernando Sanchez.|
| Sanchez's Emma Peel-ish mod black bodysuit, pants and coat ensemble
are adorned with Lane's opulent gray pearl choker, gray and black pearl/crystal
multistrand choker tied with satin ribbon and silver pavé panther
Red All Over
Red (from lipstick right through to flame) was the only flash of intense
color we saw during the week ... rose wine in rich retro-inspired burgundy
and berry took us into the palette of shocking pink ... black is there and
always will be ... plus every shade of gray from light, dark, blued, greened,
misty, cement, steel and silver to charcoal, dove, platinum and oyster ...
beige from light to dark tones ... winter white gave light relief from all
the gray, beige and black ... the jewelry that adorned, accentuated and
highlighted day and evening clothing in these colors either totally matched
or completely clashed to give a different and often surprising take on accessorizing,
from Isaac Mizrahi's minimalist necklaces to Han Feng's hair ornaments.
Han Feng accessorized her lipstick-red dress on the runway with a large,
heavily embellished brooch in the model's hair.
Very special effects push way beyond the norm ... fur-trimmed
sweaters and coats in fox, mink, sable, chinchilla, lamb ... the sparkle
of all kinds of embellishments seen all over clothing and outerwear (beads,
stones, crystals, pearls, diamonds, gold, platinum, silver)
Oscar de la Renta piles on layers of mutishaded purple wrapped
beads and crystals inset with gold to complement gold and stone earrings
from Verdura's couture jewelry collection.
Copyright © 1998 by Bond Communications.