Nili improves on invisibly set jewelry
Nili Jewelry Corp. has patented a new process to make invisibly set diamond
jewelry using the lost-wax method, a less-expensive and less-time-consuming
process than the traditional method.
Invisible setting, invented more than 100 years ago, until recently was
so challenging that only the masters such as Cartier attempted it. Even
with recent technical advances, the effect of stern, square diamonds in
obedient rows without prongs or bezels was achieved only with great time
and expense. The products were limited to upscale jewelers who could sell
the setting as a rare and high-priced look.
The new process is a departure from the traditional method, in which
diamonds with slits below the girdle are placed into a frame with ridges
that hold them in place. Instead, Nili places the diamonds and a strip of
metal inside a rubber mold and makes a wax model around them. The wax is
then used to create the ring around the diamonds, with the strip of metal
holding them securely in place.
The new process helps to solve several problems related to invisible
- Expense. Conventional invisible setting is costly. Manufacturers
can use only calibrated stones and, therefore, must buy better and sort
more. They must hire only very experienced setters and can use only larger,
heavier stones. The conventional method also takes longer, meaning only
one or two rings can be finished each day. With the new process, Nili can
mass-produce rings and hire less-experienced setters. The company also
uses smaller stones to offer a bigger look with less weight.
- Sizing. One of the most beneficial improvements is that retailers
now can size invisibly set rings safely. "If jewelers try to size
normal invisible set rings themselves, the stones pop out," says Manny
Haimoff, president of Nili. Lost-wax permanently sets the stones in place
in the metal on one side, with a metal bar running between the rows to
support the other sides.
- Design. Invisibly set jewelry usually incorporates only straight
rows of diamonds because of the difficulty of setting the stones and keeping
them in place. Nili hires diamond cutters to work with setters to cut corners
in the diamonds and create curves in jewelry. It has created a copyright
line of invisibly set diamond jewelry in gold.
Nili Jewelry Corp., New York, NY; (800) 238-0005, fax (212) 944-9517.
by Stacey King
|Normal invisibly set diamond jewelry features straight rows of large diamonds
because of time and security limitations.
||Nili's new process uses smaller stones for a bigger look and less weight.|
Nili hires diamond cutters to work with its stone setters to create curves
in its invisibly set jewelry.
Copyright © 1998 by Bond Communications.