Designers Do Diamonds

May 1998


Designers Do Diamonds

Pavé and channel settings appeal to customers with more casual lifestyles. But there's room for big diamonds, too

by Peggy Jo Donahue and Lorraine M. Suermann


In the hands of a master jeweler, diamonds become intensely interesting in ways even your most jaded customer can't imagine. Two techniques challenge designers today.

Pavé continues to intrigue for its ability to make dazzling sprays and painterly effects.

Channel settings bring a controlled and refined elegance to diamonds for those who eschew showiness.

Both techniques reflect jewelers' continuing interest in what Chicago designer Paul Klecka calls the "total weight look." Klecka points to several consumer trends as fueling this interest. "It's the women's self-purchase market, the continuing focus on the casual look in clothing and accessories and the fact that, despite their reputation, Baby Boomers are careful spenders," he says. Klecka says Boomers buy only if quality and value are evident, which bodes well for smaller diamonds nesting in well-designed jewelry.

Designer Whitney Boin, New York City, says the emphasis on small stones is due primarily to the changing lifestyles of the women who wear fine jewelry. He credits fewer formal occasions and more interest in wearing good jewelry every day. Boin also notes a growing interest in channel settings and has developed bands incorporating them.

There will always be special occasions, however. The design community continues to create jewelry with one larger diamond as a focal point to suit consumers who want to create a splash when at a formal celebration. Once again, a fresh consideration of the setting is key.


The Star collection from Henry Dunay features precision-cut star diamonds in platinum and 18k Sabi gold star-shaped pendants. Stones range from 5mm to 7.5mm, the equivalent of 3/4 to 1-1/2 carats.

Henry Dunay Designs Inc., New York City; (800) 888-2525, fax (212) 944-0308.


Diana Vincent creates fluid curves in this diamond, platinum and 18k gold brooch.

Diana Vincent, Washington Crossing, PA; (215) 493-0969 or fax (215) 493-7549.



From J.R. Gold Design's Art Deco collection, this 18k white gold heart-shaped brooch is encrusted with swirling patterns of intricately set diamond pavé highlighting a pear-shaped diamond with overlapping diamond leaf designs. A South Sea pearl is suspended from the bottom.

J.R. Gold Designs, New York City; (800) 999-0583 or (212) 922-9292, fax (212) 922-2992.

Three platinum and 18k gold ring sets in Catherine Iskiw's trademark industrial style accommodate center diamonds of a carat or more.

Catherine Iskiw, New York City; (212) 794-6392, fax (212) 794-4781.



Michael Good Designs' triple-loop bracelet is made of 18k yellow gold and square-cut, channel-set diamonds.

Michael Good Designs, Rockport, ME; (800) 422-9623 or fax (207) 236-8606, e-mail

Steven Kretchmer's trademarked "Unquestionable Ring" in 950 platinum features 24k crystal gold inlay and a 1.25- ct. diamond and melee.

Steven Kretchmer Design, Palenville, NY; (518) 678-0304, fax (518) 678-0307.



18k diamond necklace holds a 1-ct. diamond and features two puffed hearts hanging from the ends of the lasso. Matching diamond earrings are available.

Jose Hess, New York City; (800) 221-4510 or (212) 941-6233, fax (212) 941-6358.

Sequence Floater® designs feature the creative use of small diamonds.

Paul Klecka, Chicago, IL; (312) 726-0225, fax (312) 726-4122.



Michael Bondanza's one-of-a-kind platinum and 18k gold diamond pavé bracelet features 557 white diamonds weighing 17.53 cts. and 248 fancy colored diamonds weighing 5.14 cts. Colors vary from light to dark yellow, orange and brownish orange.

Michael Bondanza, New York City; (800) 835-0041, fax (212) 921-2565.

JFA Designs offers 18k yellow gold and brushed 18k white gold cuff links and men's ring with princess-cut diamonds in a channel setting. Also available in platinum.

JFA Designs, Irvine, CA; (714) 263-9909, fax (714) 263-9910.



Whitney Boin's channel-set diamond bands reflect women's increased interest in good jewelry for more casual occasions.

Whitney Boin Studio, New York, NY; (212) 673-0643, fax (212) 533-6869.

Copyright © 1998 by Bond Communications.


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