Perfectly Platinum

June 1999

Feature:June 1999

Perfectly Platinum

White is right across all jewelry categories

Platinum aficionados have never faced so many choices. Jewelry designers and manufacturers use this most precious of metals to experiment with form and color in increasing numbers. Among the most significant platinum design trends:

Color My World. Gray and white pearls, colored gems in brilliant hues and other color accents are used to play up platinum's unique tones.
Femininity. Diamond pavé and flowing, delicate designs accentuate the soft side of platinum.
Solitary Sizzle. Platinum by itself expresses the height of understated style. All-platinum rings with satin finishes and domed surfaces accent the finger. Earrings with geometric forms, small with flat surfaces, light up the face. Supple mesh or rigid bangles for women and link bracelets for men make quiet, elegant statements.
Delicate Design. "A delicate chain on which a precious pendant can be alternated with a pearl or sliding platinum sphere" is the most important trend because of its versatility, says Lisa Labrado, public relations manager for the Platinum Guild International-USA, Newport Beach, CA.

Settings and Bridal
Promotions by designers and PGI have overwhelmingly boosted platinum awareness, particularly in the bridal market. Independent research suggests that over 20% of all wedding and engagement rings sold in the U.S. in 1997 contained platinum, a dramatic jump from just a few years ago, when platinum was used mostly in ring prongs to hold important diamonds.

"Two-thirds to three-quarters of all engagement rings we sell have a platinum shank now," says Sandra Alton, vice president of Tiffany & Co., New York City.

Platinum brings out the brilliance of diamonds, while the yellow in gold pulls into the diamond, says Scott Kay, designer/owner of Scott Kay Inc., Hackensack, NJ, an early platinum proponent.

Styles and Finishes
Today's apparel fashions help pinpoint platinum as the accessory. White metal plays beautifully off winter's palette of "midnight gray, charcoal gray, slate gray or just gray," as a New Yorker cartoon depicted, and the prominent pinks and other icy pastels of summer. There are several platinum styles to complement clothing fashion.

Contemporary styles with a clean, bright, smooth feel are timeless. So are styles in which the diamonds or colored gems do not overpower.

Kay recommends platinum with a shiny finish to accessorize the matte tones of clothing. "Consumers want bright and shiny 10 to 1," he says. Other popular platinum finishes are hammered, stone and high polish with satin accents.

Weight Watcher Earrings
For earrings, extruded platinum tubing and die-struck pieces help limit the weight that is otherwise one of platinum's virtues. These earrings are hard and durable, but still comfortable.

For Men Only
Men shopping for themselves want jewelry that subtly accents their strength and success – platinum is the perfect choice. Along with rings, show these men platinum cuff links and link bracelets.

– by Lorraine M. Suermann

Platinum toggle bracelet is delicately adorned with an akoya pearl.
Scott Kay, Hackensack, NJ; (800) 487-2724 or (201) 487-2729, fax (201) 487-2119.

Platinum bracelet at top features black onyx and diamond accents and borders of 18k gold. Bracelet with oval links is crafted in platinum and 18k gold. Men's cuff links are 18k gold and platinum with sapphire accents.
Michael Bondanza Inc., New York City; (800) 835-0041 or (212) 869-0043, fax (212) 921-2565.

Platinum cuff links retail for $2,325.
I.B. Goodman Co., Cincinnati, OH; (800) 543-1945, fax (513) 721-3833.

Platinum semimounts feature 18k gold inserts, each with 0.30 carat of diamonds. Suggested retail for the semimounts, $2,050-$2,600.
Bagley & Hotchkiss Ltd., Santa Rosa, CA; (800) 621-4169 or (707) 544-8557, fax (707) 542-0718, info@johnbagley.com.

Platinum and diamond earrings are available as studs or dangles and feature 18k gold accents.
Mark Silverstein Designs, Woodland Hills, CA; (800) 993-5900.

Geometric platinum and diamond ring features baguette diamonds.
D'ckar Business Corp., New York City; (877) DCKAR99 or (212) 819-1177, fax (212) 819-1717, www.dckar.com.

The all-platinum and diamond Crescent Collection features an "all around" necklace set with 1.75 carats of diamonds. Suggested retail, $8,650.
William Chalson & Co., New York City; (800) 223-2363 or (212) 719-2827, fax (212) 354-6438, info@williamchalson.com.

Platinum rings (from left) feature tapered baguettes to accent any shape of center stone, straight or tapered baguettes in a "half way" channel setting, two tapered baguettes on each side of a center stone, oval diamonds in a Gem Lock setting and baguette and trilliant diamonds to accent any shape of center stone.
Mr. Baguette Ltd., New York City; (800) 598-3456 or (212) 758-1300, fax (212) 758-1573.

From the Adagio collection, the platinum necklace features 3.82 carats of diamonds ($14,400 suggested retail), the bracelet has 5.81 carats ($18,400) and the ring has 0.88 carats ($3,200).
Carelle, New York City; (800) 225-7782 or (212) 997-1156, fax (212) 827-0042, www.carelle.com.

Floral platinum earrings each hold a 0.15-ct. center diamond surrounded by six 0.10-ct. diamonds.
Adwar Casting Co., Rockville Centre, NY; (800) 255-7755 or (516) 678-7755, www.adwar.com.

Platinum earrings feature 2.46 carats of bezel-set diamonds.
Jane Taylor Inc., South Hadley, MA; (800) 240-2282 or (413) 535-1574, fax (413) 535-5138.

Platinum and 14k rose gold Casco Wave set features a pendant ($440 suggested retail) and earrings ($675).
Daunis, Portland, ME; (207) 773-6011, fax (207) 773-3603.

Platinum and 18k gold rings are from the Keepsake line.
Keepsake, Frederick Goldman Inc., New York City; (212) 807-2041.

Princess-cut diamonds are the focus of this satin-finish platinum ring with diamonds trickling down the shank.
Rudolf Erdel Platinum, New York City; (212) 633-9333.

Brasilia Collection by Antonini features a platinum necklace with diamonds along one side.
IJG, Beverly Hills, CA; (800) 443-1479, fax (323) 653-1768.

950 platinum chains are available in a variety of styles and in 10k, 14k and 18k yellow, white and rose gold.
Bhamra Chain, Union, NJ; (908) 686-4555, fax (908) 686-4556.

Platinum ring features a radiant-cut center diamond flanked by oval and pear-shaped diamonds (2.0 carats total). Suggested retail, $8,499. The band features seven pear-shaped diamonds (1.50 carats) and is $2,999 suggested retail.
L.I.D. Ltd., New York City; (212) 980- 7500.

The Nuvole collection by Bulgari features bracelets made exclusively in platinum and diamonds.
Bulgari, New York City; (800) BULGARI.

Platinum band features a sandblasted finish. Suggested retail, $1,300.
GD Platinum Inc.; (800) 489-7823.

Platinum hoop earrings feature alternating baguettes and round diamonds with post/clip backs. Suggested retail, $9,900.
Barnett Robinson Inc., New York City; (800) 223-0240 or (212) 682-1086.