A new road leading to profitability is pavéd with colorful
Pavé diamond jewelry is commanding renewed attention these days
as yellows, pinks and even blues join traditional white.
"It's perceived as something different, unusual," says Aaron
Suna of Suna Bros., New York City. Retailers agree the look is catching
on. Nancy Movahedi of Jewel Boutique, Carmel, CA, has sold several X-shaped
pins with colored diamond pavé ranging from 2.5 to 4 carats since
starting to wear one herself. And Bill Nusser of Hands Jewelers, Iowa City,
IA, says his customers are particularly interested in the look of yellow
pavé in yellow gold. "They think the diamonds are textured gold,"
Matching Colors and Metals
Yellow and pink predominate, after white, in diamond pavé, though
blue, green and other colors show up also. "It all depends on our needs
and availability," says Sanjay Shah of Uni-Creations, a manufacturer
in New York City. Sizes range from 1 to 12 points.
The diamonds are set primarily in platinum and/or 18k white, yellow or
pink gold. The high quality of the material signals a high-end product that
is the antithesis of the low- grade, pile-them-on pavé jewelry of
a decade ago.
Some jewelry designers match the color of the diamonds and metals, others
use contrasting colors. Michael Bogosian of Michael B, Studio City, CA,
for example, believes all-yellow jewelry is gauche. "I don't like to
make yellow the focus. It (the metal) should be an enhancement."
The industry is approaching colored pavé with caution. Paul Klecka,
a designer in Chicago, IL, says consumers began to accept the look only
about two years ago. Shah mentions resistance to price. And Nader Malakan
of Malakan Diamond Co., Fresno, CA, says good quality and good cut are necessary
to interest today's pavé consumers.
But some are willing to take the chance and beef up their pavé
lines. Picchiotti, the Italian jewelry manufacturer, says pavé accounted
for 30% of its 1998 collection, including two pieces featuring colored diamonds.
That number will increase this year, says Maria Picchiotti.
This year also will see a new pavé-intensive collection by Andrew
Meyer Jewelry Co., Fort Washington, PA; a line with pink pavé in
three qualities (lower prices for "everyday" wear, more classic
style and some one-of-a-kinds) by Suna Bros.; and more suites of colored
diamond pavé jewelry and one-of-a-kinds by Martin Gruber of Nova/NWI,
Van Nuys, CA.
In addition to freshening the look of pavé, color can be used
to make specific statements. Designer Michael Genito, Fresno, CA, has used
orange and blue diamonds for replicas of the Denver Broncos' logo, created
eagles with brown and orange diamonds for a local casino and is using yellow
diamonds to make daffodils for a winery promoting a daffodil festival.
by Jack Heeger
Here are three examples of the trend-setting use of color diamond pavé.
Yellow and white diamonds surround pearls in earrings (above) by Ellagem
Inc., New York City; (212) 398-0101. Yellow diamond outer bands highlight
a white pavé center in rings (top right) by Michael B, Studio City,
CA, (818) 769-8388. Pink and yellow join white diamond pavé in a
suite by Lazare Kaplan International, New York City; (800) LK-IDEAL.
Copyright © 1999 by Bond Communications.