Powerful Pavé

May 1999


Powerful Pavé

A new road leading to profitability is pavéd with colorful diamonds

Pavé diamond jewelry is commanding renewed attention these days as yellows, pinks and even blues join traditional white.

"It's perceived as something different, unusual," says Aaron Suna of Suna Bros., New York City. Retailers agree the look is catching on. Nancy Movahedi of Jewel Boutique, Carmel, CA, has sold several X-shaped pins with colored diamond pavé ranging from 2.5 to 4 carats since starting to wear one herself. And Bill Nusser of Hands Jewelers, Iowa City, IA, says his customers are particularly interested in the look of yellow pavé in yellow gold. "They think the diamonds are textured gold," he says.

Matching Colors and Metals
Yellow and pink predominate, after white, in diamond pavé, though blue, green and other colors show up also. "It all depends on our needs and availability," says Sanjay Shah of Uni-Creations, a manufacturer in New York City. Sizes range from 1 to 12 points.

The diamonds are set primarily in platinum and/or 18k white, yellow or pink gold. The high quality of the material signals a high-end product that is the antithesis of the low- grade, pile-them-on pavé jewelry of a decade ago.

Some jewelry designers match the color of the diamonds and metals, others use contrasting colors. Michael Bogosian of Michael B, Studio City, CA, for example, believes all-yellow jewelry is gauche. "I don't like to make yellow the focus. It (the metal) should be an enhancement."

Cautious Growth
The industry is approaching colored pavé with caution. Paul Klecka, a designer in Chicago, IL, says consumers began to accept the look only about two years ago. Shah mentions resistance to price. And Nader Malakan of Malakan Diamond Co., Fresno, CA, says good quality and good cut are necessary to interest today's pavé consumers.

But some are willing to take the chance and beef up their pavé lines. Picchiotti, the Italian jewelry manufacturer, says pavé accounted for 30% of its 1998 collection, including two pieces featuring colored diamonds. That number will increase this year, says Maria Picchiotti.

This year also will see a new pavé-intensive collection by Andrew Meyer Jewelry Co., Fort Washington, PA; a line with pink pavé in three qualities (lower prices for "everyday" wear, more classic style and some one-of-a-kinds) by Suna Bros.; and more suites of colored diamond pavé jewelry and one-of-a-kinds by Martin Gruber of Nova/NWI, Van Nuys, CA.

In addition to freshening the look of pavé, color can be used to make specific statements. Designer Michael Genito, Fresno, CA, has used orange and blue diamonds for replicas of the Denver Broncos' logo, created eagles with brown and orange diamonds for a local casino and is using yellow diamonds to make daffodils for a winery promoting a daffodil festival.

– by Jack Heeger


Here are three examples of the trend-setting use of color diamond pavé. Yellow and white diamonds surround pearls in earrings (above) by Ellagem Inc., New York City; (212) 398-0101. Yellow diamond outer bands highlight a white pavé center in rings (top right) by Michael B, Studio City, CA, (818) 769-8388. Pink and yellow join white diamond pavé in a suite by Lazare Kaplan International, New York City; (800) LK-IDEAL.





Copyright © 1999 by Bond Communications.


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