Professional Jeweler Archive: Four Classic Setting Styles

August 2000

For Your Staff/Selling Styles


Four Classic Setting Styles

This is 10th in a series of articles Professional Jeweler is presenting on different styles of jewelry. Learning about different styles, selling points and where they came from can make your job more interesting and profitable


Flush

A style of setting a flat-top stone in jewelry. The top edge of the setting is forced over the facets of the stone and ground down so it’s level with the stone’s table.

18k gold suite features flush-set colored diamonds (0.33 carat in the Starlight band and 0.55 carat in the Chicklet earrings).

Etienne Perret & Co., Camden, ME; (207) 236-9696, fax (207) 236-9698.

Bezel

In this style of setting, the edge of the top metal rim is extended to surround a cavity that holds the gemstone. The term bezel is often applied to all or part of the setting, including the stone or other ornament, such as the seal of a signet ring.

Platinum necklace has a 0.25-ct. bezel-set diamond and 1.3-ct. bezel-set blue sapphire.

Catherine Iskiw Designs, New York, NY; (212) 794-6392, fax (212) 794-4781.

Channel

Often used in Eternity rings, this setting features a single row of square, same-size diamonds or colored gemstones. Two circular bands are bridged together to secure the stones between them.

14k gold Expressway ring features channel-set baguette diamonds.

Atencio Creations Ltd., Denver, CO; (303) 830-7733, fax (303) 830-0891.

Tension

Tension setting holds a stone in place by compression-spring power in the shank. Developed by German designer Friedrich Becker in the late 1960s, it’s marketed also by Niessing and others who use work-hardening techniques that strengthen the alloy by pounding. Designer/metallurgist Steven Kretchmer refined the technique and holds two patents on processing metal alloy compositions through heat treatment.

Diamond is tension-set in a platinum ring.

Steven Kretchmer Designs, Palenville, NY; (518) 678-0304, fax (518) 678-0307.

– by Lorraine M. Suermann, A.J.P.


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