Professional Jeweler Archive: Angular Circle

December 2000

Diamonds/News


Angular Circle

Additional facets, a zig-zag girdle and an entrancing sparkle are the hallmarks of the J.C. Millennium cut


Master diamond cutter John Ceulemans has created a new diamond cut that breaks all the rules. The J.C. Millennium cut faces up as a "round," but it's not exactly round. It has 16 straight sides arranged in a circular outline and a girdle with a zig-zag pattern. It has additional angles in the pavilion and 30 more facets than an Ideal cut for a grand total of 88 facets.

If you peer into the heart of the J.C. Millennium, you're greeted by a perfect flower pattern, high scintillation and brilliance.

Ceulemans, of Antwerp, Belgium, is known for designing and cutting several important diamonds, including the Mouawad Magic and the Mouawad Splendour. He spent more than a year figuring out the angles and design for the J.C. Millennium, which is trademarked, registered and in production. The cut is branded with the J.C. Millennium logo, a registration number and 2000. They come with a certificate from Belgium's HRD diamond lab and a certificate of authenticity signed by Ceulemans. A leather pouch is supplied for safe-keeping loose stones.

Exclusivity

"It is such a unique and beautiful gem," says distributor Sol Gelernter of H.B.S. Diamonds Inc., New York City. "For retailers the best news is the diamonds aren't available elsewhere and can't be shopped on the Internet. It will help jewelers build profit back into their businesses."

A quick tally of the benefits suggests the J.C. Millennium diamond should be more expensive than a comparable Ideal-cut diamond, but it's often less. Cutter Didier Van der Linden says that while J.C. Millennium diamonds take longer to cut than Ideals, the shape generally makes better use of the rough. "The increased yield allows the factory to pass on savings to consumers." Van der Linden says.

Gelernter urges jewelers to compare the J.C. Millennium to other cuts side by side. "The diamond is more brilliant not because it has more facets, rather because of how the facets interact and return light and sparkle," he says.

H.B.S. Diamonds Inc. sent one of the diamonds to the Diamond Profile Laboratory, Dallas, TX, to determine the exact return of light. It was graded "excellent" for symmetry, "very good" for dispersion and "excellent+" for brilliance.

Setting Challenge

Setting the zig-zag girdles is challenge, but Gelernter says jewelers have quickly learned how. H.B.S. Diamonds also developed ring and earring stud mountings designed to show the J.C. Millennium to its best advantage.

When setting the diamonds Gelernter suggests considering two things:

1. Keep the serial number and logo visible, not hidden under a prong.

2. Set the prongs so the diamonds are locked in place and cannot swivel or move because of the angles of the girdle.

• H.B.S. Diamonds, New York City; (800) 220-7890, hbsdia@aol.com.

– Robert Weldon, G.G.

An Ideal-cut diamond (left) and a J.C. Millennium diamond designed by Belgian cutter John Ceulemans (right). Both diamonds are about 1 carat. Courtesy of H.B.S. Diamonds Inc., New York City.
Photo: Robert Weldon
Right: The J.C. Millennium has a zig-zag girdle and is laser-inscribed with a brand, serial number and date. Courtesy of H.B.S. Diamonds Inc., New York City.
Photo: Robert Weldon
Below: The circular look results from 16 straight edges arranged in a circular pattern. Courtesy of H.B.S. Diamonds Inc., New York City.
Photo: Robert Weldon

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