Professional Jeweler Archive: Glamorous Gold

October 2000

Feature


Glamorous Gold

Designers are bringing back the classics and updating them with the fresh look of two-tone gold and mixed finishes


What’s old is new again, as consumers who spurned ostentation in favor of minimalism in the 1990s now look for more layers and texture in their gold jewelry.

“There is more wealth so consumers can afford the workmanship of more complex finishes,” says Rick Bannerot, advertising and marketing manager for the World Gold Council office in New York City. But this isn’t the ’80s – consumers are uncomfortable with conspicuous consumption or outrageousness. Think bold not chunky, creative but also practical.

Another important trend is a consumer move to higher quality and higher karatage, says Christine Yorke, consultant to the World Gold Council. “Consumers are more secure in their personal tastes and are ready to move from stamped to cast and from 14k to 18k,” says Yorke. In fact, more consumers will sacrifice size for quality, spending what money they have on higher-quality smaller jewelry.

Diamonds and Colored Gems

White gold retains the popularity it achieved over the past three years, especially in diamond jewelry and in more fashion-forward pieces with big colored gemstones.

Yellow gold, meanwhile, creates a warm, earthy background for the rich tones of sapphire, ruby, turquoise, tourmaline, amethyst, peridot, citrine and garnet. Often the gems are large enough to make a commanding statement. “A big color impact is important in gold jewelry,” says Patricia Daunis, owner/designer of Daunis, Portland, ME.

Finishes

High polish and matte are the most desirable finishes today, and consumers particularly gravitate toward the sophisticated look of combining the two. “High surface areas that are polished and low surface areas in matte bring out the detail,” says Vincent Ferrante, vice president of U.S. operations at Charles Garnier-Paris, Cranston, RI.

Trends by Category

Our experts share the following thoughts on what today’s consumers want in the following gold jewelry categories. Consider each when planning your inventory for the holiday selling season and following second-selling season (Valentine’s Day, Mother’s Day and Father’s Day).

Earrings: From the gypsy styles of the ’60s to the diminutive styles of the ’90s, hoops are hot. So are studs, button earrings and wire dangles with movement.

Necklaces: Look for pendants on long chains with gemstone accents, better-made personalized jewelry, variations of the omega and slide pendants, collars, open-work styles and delicate neck wires with stations or wires with dangles. Movement gives an extra salable quality.

Rings: Thin bands that stack or wide cigar bands worn singly are popular.

Bracelets. Thin multiple bangles or bold cuffs that can be worn every day are hot for casual wear; glitzy bracelets with gemstone accents grace wrists for more formal affairs.

Pins. Whimsical nature and animal motifs will find a spot on the women’s suit jackets expected to return to wardrobes this fall and winter. For versatility, recommend pins with removable dangles and scatter pins to be worn in multiple configurations.

Rising Stars

Though fine jewelry trends evolve slowly, here are a few to watch for on the horizon:

• Increased use of 18k gold.

• More exotic finishes. For example, ruthenium will give white gold a gray hue thanks to an oxidation process.

• Bigger earrings. Consumers will want more gemstone accents.

• Colored gold that stands alone rather than mixed with other tones.

• Gemstone accents that match the color of the gold.

– by Lorraine M. Suermann, A.J.P.

18k gold mesh scarf is created with hand-hammered gold links, diamond accents and 18k white gold discs.

Orlando Orlandini for Simon Sobie & Co.,
New York City; (212) 832-3246, fax (212) 832-3328.

18k gold Heliconia necklace.

Jeannette Fossas,
San Juan, PR; (787) 722-4154, fax (787) 722-3858.

18k gold rings are created in the images of a monkey, octopus and lion cubs accented with diamonds. Suggested retail, $2,900-$5,000.

Onofrio D. Oro,
New York City; (212) 768-1395, fax (212) 843-0601.

18k white and yellow gold necklaces are winners of World Gold Council’s Gold Trends 2000 contest. Suggested retail, $4,500-$5,000.

Links, a division of the Design Gold Group, Hollywood, FL; (954) 921-8900, fax (954) 921-8972.

18k gold pin set with rubies and pearls is $615
suggested retail.

The Cargo Hold
Inc., Charleston, SC; (803) 723-3341, fax (803) 722-1377.

18k gold open-link bracelet is $1,200 retail.

Auritalia Imports,
Miami, FL; (305) 371-7092, fax (305) 375-9579.

14k trigold necklace.

Royal Chain,
New York City; (800) 622-0960 or (212) 382-3340,
fax (212) 730-7616.

18k gold hoop earrings are inspired by nature.

Kimberlee Teti,
Wayne, PA; (610) 688-8828, fax (610) 688-8890.

18k gold ring features one center diamond.

Piaget,
Shelton, CT; (203) 925-6450, fax (203) 925-6460.

18k white gold jewelry with diamond accents is from the Carini collection. Suggested retail, $460-$3,950.

Mazza/Bartholomew Ltd.,
New York City; (212) 935-4530, fax (212) 355-7801.

22k/20k gold earrings with granulation are $1,400 suggested retail.

Tomi for Mary Jane Yagi Inc.,
New York City; (646) 319-4823.

Two-tone heart pendant is set with a diamond accent. Hinged hoop heart earrings are crafted in 14k gold.

Friedrich Zettl GmbH,
Hollywood, FL; (305) 867-8383, fax (305) 868-4869.

18k gold button earrings retail for $500-$1,600.

Elite Import Inc.,
New York City; (212) 575-1008 or (212) 575-1009, fax (212) 764-7659.

18k gold coffee bean bracelet.

David Lee Holland,
New York City; (212) 431-3848, fax (212) 431-3897.

10k gold flying eagle rings are trimmed in 12k gold and accented with onyx.Suggested retail, $209+.

South Dakota Gold Co.,
Rapid City, SD; (800) 523-4209, fax (800) 348-7087.

18k gold heart pendants feature a diamond accent, diamond pavé or plain gold.

Atencio,
Denver, CO; (303) 830-7733, fax (303) 830-0891.

18k gold mesh collection features white or yellow gold knot earrings and necklaces.

Rina Limor for J.R. Gold Designs,
New York City; (212) 922-9292, fax (212) 922-2992.

18k gold cuff links are made in pink, white and yellow gold with diamond accents. Suggested retail, $2,200-$5,000.

William Richey Designs,
Portland, ME; (207) 879-2216, fax (207) 879-2402, www.wmrichey.com, richeydes@aol.com.

18k white or yellow gold rings from the Square collection retail for $450-$800.

Barbara Killen Design Ltd.,
Chicago, IL; (888) 558-3435 or (312) 346-6955, barbarakillen.com.

Inspired by sea life, the Noé Marina collection combines small dolphins in 14k white and yellow gold.

Carrera y Carrera,
Madrid, Spain; (34-91) 843-5193, fax (34-91) 843-5825, cycsa@sarenet.es.

18k palladium white gold bamboo rings are hand-engraved with 0.50 carat of black and white diamonds. Keystone, $2,650.

S. Graham,
Portland, OR; (503) 481-5561, sgraham@linkport.com.

14k gold slide pendants feature quartz with 24k natural gold veins.

Oro-Cal Natural Gold Co.,
Oroville, CA; (800) 367-6225 or (530) 533-5065,
fax (530) 533-5067, orocal@cncnet.com.

14k white or yellow gold hinged hoop earrings retail for $235-$480.

Breuning Inc.,
Lawrenceville, GA; (678) 377-1673, fax (678) 377-1674, breuningus@aol.com.

18k gold Lenticchie earrings and matching bracelet and the Elisse ring are handmade with the lost-wax casting technique and feature a flamed “Oro Nativo” finish. Suggested retail, earrings $1,756, bracelet $3,860 and ring $1,696.

Torrini,
Firenze, Italy; (39-055) 233-6060, fax (39-055) 233-6130, info@torrini.it, www.torrini.it.

The Mi Amor collection features a gold bracelet formed with interlocking hearts.

Ricardo Migel,
New York City; (212) 575-7962.

10k gold pendants are accented with 12k rose and green leaves or a cultured pearl.

Black Hills Gold by Coleman,
Rapid City, SD; (800) 874-9926 or (605) 394-3767, fax (605) 394-3719.

14k heart and oval lockets are $109.95-$140 retail.

Legere,
Attleboro, MA; (800) 451-2922, fax (508) 226-1954.

14k gold Nautical Knots collection features a single braid cuff bracelet that retails for $1,112. Knot earrings are $492.

Daunis,
Portland, ME; (207) 773-6011,fax (207) 773-3603.

14k white or yellow gold contemporary heart pendant hangs on a 16-in. chain and retails for $99. Matching pin retails for $39.

B.A. Ballou,
Providence, RI; (800) 755-7099 or (401) 521-2700, ext. 114, fax (401) 854-2709, sfern@rdwgroup.com.

14k fancy gold necklace is 17 inches long. Suggested retail, $1,020.

HMS,
Addison, TX (972) 458-9571, fax (972) 450-4445.

Stylized 14k Celtic pins represent dogs, cats, birds and horses.

Anita Lang,
Glen, NH; (800) 741-0864, fax (603) 383-6305, alang@ncia.net.

14k gold and sterling silver heart jewelry retails for $64-$140.

Leonore Doskow Inc.,
Montrose, NY; (914) 737-1335, fax (914) 737-5049.

14k gold custom I.D. bracelets feature a three-dimensional nameplate that can be made in any size to accommodate any name. Suggested retail for an 8-in. chain, $449. In sterling silver, $99.

KDS Jewelry,
Baldwin, NY; (800) 227-5371 or (516) 623-2333, fax (516) 623-1184.

The Mini collection features small hoops with a variety of finishes in 18k yellow, gray and two-tone gold.

Charles Garnier-Paris,
Cranston, RI; (800) 722-3721 or (401) 946-3444, fax (401) 946-0044.

18k gold bold cuff bracelet, classic disc earrings and sleek collar necklace get the gold treatment.

Robert Lee Morris,
New York City; (212) 554-9168, fax (212) 245-2158, tracys@robertleemorris.com.

Rope knot earrings come in 14k gold and retail for $65-$159.

J.M. Cabot Inc.,
New York City;(212) 563-6661.

Copyright © 2001 by Bond Communications