To create the prong, metal is cut into a small tubular holder and set into the jewelry. The prongs are bent to extend slightly over the girdle of the stone. This setting is most common for engagement rings, earrings and pendants.
12mm round rubellite is prong-set in an 18k white gold ring that features 1.11 carats of VS diamonds in the prongs and ring shank. Suggested retail, $10,120.
Kabana Inc., Albuquerque, NM; (800) 521-5986 or (505) 843-9330, fax (505) 843-9624, email@example.com.
Many small diamonds or colored gems are set close together in a mass, concealing the metal base. The stones are secured in holes drilled through the base and held in place by burrs pressed down over their edges. Pavé setting emphasizes a massed effect rather than individual stones.
Platinum and 18k gold ring features 1.5 carats of pavé diamonds set by Bertrand Clerc of Houston, TX. Suggested retail, $7,080 keystone.
William Richey Designs, Portland, ME; (207) 879-2216, fax (207) 879-2402.
Invented in France more than 200 years ago, invisible setting holds stones aloft with no metal visible between them. While the stones seem to float above the jewelry, the metal structure below holds them securely. With advanced technology, this has become a more common jewelry category. This setting takes a great deal of skill because grooves have to be cut into each stones girdle and must match perfectly. Once the grooves are cut, the stones are slid onto metal rails to hold them in place to create a continuous flow. Invisible setting allows jewelers to create large diamond and colored gem surfaces without expensive large stones.
14k white gold ring is invisibly set with 1.5 carats of diamonds. Suggested retail, $4,995.
Dckar Business Corp., New York City; (877) 325-2799 or (212) 819-1177,fax (212) 819-1717.