Professional Jeweler Archive: Metal Fold

October 2000

Precious Metals & Bench/New Products

Metal Fold

Crimp, crease, bend over or fold back, designers give precious metal extra pizzazz

The Interesting Look of folded metal jewelry gets an extra kick when two colors are used for contrast. Examples include yellow and white gold, platinum and gold, and more recently sterling silver and gold.

In fact, the sterling/gold combo allows a perfect mix of flexibility and rigidity, resulting in jewelry that’s bold and yet affordable. “Fourteen-karat gold is too rigid by itself, and 22k gold is too soft,” says Martina Windels, owner/designer of Martina & Co., Providence, RI. “The challenge is to find the right metals that will hold the shape of the jewelry without cracking.”

A combination of metals adds not only strength, but also dimension and interest, says Leslie Resio, president and general manager of Ed Levin Jewelry, Cambridge, NY. “These designs are not flat or cast. They have to be fabricated to get the desired dimension.”

To capture the most attention in your showcases, group your folded metal jewelry together rather than sprinkling it among other pieces.

– by Lorraine M. Suermann, A.J.P.

From the "Reflections" line, these anticlastic earrings are crafted in 18k gold and platinum with diamond accents. Available with colored gemstone accents.

Salida, CO; (719) 539-2971,

Textured and folded button earrings in sterling and 24k gold are $82 retail (top). Sterling silver folds up over 14k gold in the earrings at center. They are $56 retail.

Ed Levin Jewelry,
Cambridge, NY; (518) 677-8595, fax (518) 677-8597.

Curving scroll earrings are crafted in 18k gold and are handwoven. Suggested retail, $1,530.

Barbara Berk Designs,
Foster City, CA; (650) 349-4137, fax (650) 349-4042,

Crafted in 18k gold, sterling silver or a combination of both metals, these lightweight mobius bracelets expand to fit any wrist. Suggested retail, $150-$950.

Martina & Co.,
Providence, RI; (401) 351-0968, fax (401) 351-0960.

Handmade folded platinum earrings are lightweight and retail from $180.

The Touch,
Waltham, MA; (800) 556-0041 or (781) 894-8133, fax (781) 894-7821,,

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