Professional Jeweler Archive: Brooching Gemstones

September 2000

Gemstones & Pearls: New Products

Brooching Gemstones

Add a feminine edge to tailored suits with designs that can be worn as brooches or pendants

A brooch can soften and personalize tailored suits and heavy coats, and colored gem versions can lay to rest the brooch’s reputation as “old lady” jewelry.

“Accessorizing with brooches not only makes an outfit sparkle, but also helps blend what is already in your wardrobe,” says Donna Chambers, owner/designer of Donna Chambers Designs Inc., White Plains, NY.

With tan expected to be one of the big apparel colors this fall, the door is open to colorful accents. “Consumers will look for hot colors to give life to their neutrals,” says Diane Mazza, vice president/designer at Mazza/Bartholomew Ltd., New York City. Meeting this demand will be pink and green tourmaline, citrine, aquamarine, chalcedony, iolite and colorful pearls.

Popular motifs are dragonflies and flowers, especially versatile ones that can be worn as a pin or pendant, adds Mazza.

For customers just beginning to consider a brooch or ready to add to their collections, here are some suggestions you can offer:

  • Consider wearing it on the shoulder, a shirt sleeve, the pocket of a suit jacket or a dress belt (if the brooch is large enough). Caution the customer to wear the brooch on the opposite shoulder from her handbag strap so nothing is damaged.
  • Suggest your more daring customers wear a brooch as a hair clip, a pearl enhancer or on a hat or scarf.
  • Encourage your customer to be creative in deciding whether to wear the brooch right side up, upside down or at an unusual angle. Geometric shapes, for example, generally can be worn at any angle.

– by Lorraine M. Suermann, A.J.P.

Removable 18k white gold pin/pendant is set with mesh-cut blue chalcedony and diamond accents.

Judith Ripka, New York, NY; (212) 355-0033, fax (212) 355-8757.

Insect pins are crafted in platinum and 18k gold and feature frosted crystal wings. The bottom left pin features a 2.27-ct. yellow sapphire, 1.11 carats of diamond pavé and a 14.5mm pearl ($16,000 suggested retail). The top pin holds a 0.96-ct. heart-shaped blue sapphire, 0.40 carat of diamond pavé, 0.26 carat of rubies and a 15mm pearl ($12,000). The third pin features a 2.48-ct. pink sapphire, 0.52 carat of diamond pavé and three black onyx bands ($10,000).

Ella Gafter for Ellagem, New York City; (212) 398-0101, fax (212) 302-0153.

14k gold mother-of-pearl pin/pendant features a carved moonstone face wearing a gray freshwater pearl headdress. White freshwater pearls accent the body. Suggested retail, $900.

Donna Chambers Designs Inc., White Plains, NY; (914) 287-0303, fax (914) 328-7215.

The Shooting Star brooch is crafted in 18k rose and yellow gold and 22k yellow gold and holds a 30-ct. Apex cut ametrine and 1.75 carats of Umba sapphires. Suggested retail, $11,500. From the Chinois collection comes the 18k gold brooch with a 45-ct. ametrine briolette ($1,315 for the brooch, $1,390 for the ametrine).

Cynthia Renée Co., Fallbrook, CA; (760) 728-5150, fax (760) 728-2636.

The 18k white gold flamingo brooch is set with 4.49 carats of pink sapphires and 0.46 carat of diamonds (suggested retail, $3,898). The 18k yellow gold brooch has 2.61 carats of yellow sapphires and 1.28 carats of diamonds ($5,248).

LeVian® Corp., New York, NY; (212) 575-0318, fax (212) 944-7734,

Platinum and 18k gold brooch has a 3.47-ct. Mexican fire opal and a 7.60-ct. green tourmaline with 0.05 carat of diamond accents. Suggested retail, $9,000.

William Richey Designs, Portland, ME; (207) 879-2216, fax (207) 879-2402.

The carved pink tourmaline brooch has 18k gold veins, a Tahitian cultured pearl and diamond accents ($3,590 keystone) The carved aquamarine brooch features 18k gold veins and is set with a blue sapphire and diamond accents ($1,390).

Mazza/Bartholomew Ltd., New York City; (212) 935-4530, fax (212) 355-7801.

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