August 2001 Feature Watches 2001: A Guide to New Styles in Time Big Time Dials & Displays Colorful Crowd Pleasers Brilliant Accents & More Big Time The Case for Larger Sizes That bulge under your friend’s sleeve isn’t a cast on his or her wrist. It’s likely one of those large-case watches favored by many watch buyers today. It’s one category of timepieces that, well, grows each year. Men and women have more choices than ever in this category. Men’s styles still outnumber women’s, but more models are available for feminine wrists this season than ever before. What’s big? At 42mm (1.68 inches) in diameter, the Panerai Radiomir Chrono Foudroyante is big. Panerai also still sells the 44mm model that made the brand popular worldwide. Make a Statement It’s not just about impressive measurements – it’s also about appearance and making a statement, whether that statement is high fashion, high tech or both. A big watch will be noticed. Perhaps that’s why brands such as Corum, Oris and Gucci also expanded their selection of larger models this year. Left: Here’s a front view of the watch shown from the side on our cover (below): Corum’s Bubble, now a signature piece for the brand. This midsize quartz model is 35.5mm in diameter (that’s 1.42 inches for the non-metrically inclined). A bigger version is available at 45mm (1.8 inches). IWC adds this chronograph with rattrapante, a feature that allows timing of two events within the same minute. Here it’s shown with hypoallergenic titanium case and bracelet. Oris delivers the XXL Complication, which includes moonphase indicator, second time zone, day and date subdials. Fortis unveils this 42mm model, the B-42, as a chronograph, a chrono dual time zone model and a chronograph alarm (shown). The Panerai Radiomir Chrono Foudroyante features a dial with continuous action. The seconds dial at the 9 o’clock position is subdivided, allowing the hand to jump eight times each second. Gucci meets demand among men for mechanicals with its first-ever manual-wind men’s model. Wenger’s Alpine Field offers a new model with day/date or as a chronograph. Dials & Displays Big Dates As cases expand, so do dials. This year, many watchmakers treat them as an artist would a canvas. Clean, open layouts are clear trend, but equally popular are useful and aesthetically pleasing dial indicators. For example, big date displays are an eye-catching feature seen on many 2001 debuts. It’s easy to see why. The date is one of the most useful features on a watch so why hide it? Power Reserve Likewise, power-reserve indicators are attractive and handy displays on automatic or manual-wind timepieces. They allow you to see at a glance whether it’s time to wind the watch. Perpetual Calendars If you’re never sure whether the first of the month has arrived, you may need a perpetual calendar watch to remind you. No need to change the date and the day indicator each month. That’s done automatically. More watches this year include this useful feature. Montblanc’s powerful chronograph with flyback function also features a big date. Girard-Perregaux’s Vintage 1945 places large date and moonphase indicators on its classic dial this year. Zenith, a legendary Swiss brand now available in the U.S., features a clean dial covering an ultrathin mechanical movement. Citizen includes perpetual calendars in many of its newer Eco-Drive battery-free quartz watches. Pictured is its newest men’s edition. Colorful Crowd Pleasers Bright colors on wrists get noticed. If the colors are the latest in the world of fashion, all the better. In fact, the combination of fashion and function create a compelling reason to build a timepiece wardrobe to choose from year-round. Boucheron places pink, yellow and blue sapphires on its Diamant. Dior’s cuff watch features a deep red dial and a houndstooth design on its bracelet. The TechnoLady from TechnoMarine features a multihued mother-of-pearl dial, deep red strap and diamond markers and bezel. Corum’s Sugercube is now made in steel. The sweet offering is available in gold too. Brilliant Accents As more women buy their own timepieces, more models are designed with diamonds, colored gemstones, crystals, polished metals and mother-of-pearl dials. Increasingly, diamonds and crystals find themselves on bracelets as well as dials. Think of it as jewelry for the wrist that just happens to tell time. With Swarovski crystals, these Bulova women’s timepieces sparkle in steel. The Longines DolceVita Diamond has 5.24 carats of diamonds set in 18 karat gold with a mother-of-pearl dial. Alfex’s modern profiles now include diamonds. Rolex’s new Lady Datejust is shown with a black mother-of-pearl dial and 10 diamond markers. Dive In Before you submerge, check for water resistance Divers need a timepiece that is legible and can tolerate water pressure. Manufacturers often measure water resistance in feet (ft), meters (m) or atmospheres (atm). Normally, terms of depth imply a watch will resist water leakage at that depth and atmospheric pressure in calm conditions. As a general rule, these guidelines apply: 3 atm (30 m or 100 ft): Rain, gentle splashing. 5 atm (50 m or 165 ft): Swimming, splashing in a pool, but not heavy diving or jumping. 10 atm (100 m or 330 ft): Minimum required for sport diving. 20 atm or more: Serious diving. Dive models, like this Deep One from IWC, use bright colors on the hands and dials for underwater readability. Rubber or sharkskin straps are common, and many have longer straps to fit over a wetsuit. The Wisdom of Winders Saving time was never easier Keeping automatic or manual-wind watches at their peak typically means wearing them often. But more people are buying multiple watches, leaving some in the dresser for days or weeks without wearing them. That’s not a problem for battery-driven quartz watches. But after three days of sitting in a drawer, the typical automatic watch is out of time. To wind the watch, you can shake or swivel it. This turns the roter, which winds the mainspring. You also need to reset the time and date. With a watch winder, however, you can avoid this chore entirely. Simply place your watch on the winder, set it as indicated and it will keep the watch operating automatically. Most models are preset to deliver the correct number of rotations for most watches, from 500 to 1,800 spins daily. Some companies now include a winder with the purchase of an automatic watch. Look for more winders in bright and fashionable colors aimed at the growing number of women watch collectors. Underwood’s newest single-wind module is made of high-tech carbon fiber. It rotates 1,800 times every 24 hours with intervening rest periods. It rotates in both directions, switching with each turn. The winders operate on battery power or AC and can be removed from the outside box for travel or storage. Watch Maintenance Tips Keep timepieces in peak operating shape with these tips from the Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry Make sure everything is attached securely. Look where the strap connects to the case and be sure it’s secure on both sides. Is the crystal tight? Broken or scratched crystals should be replaced immediately – even a hairline crack can let dust or moisture into the mechanism, threatening its accuracy. Mechanical watches should be taken to an authorized jeweler for servicing and repair according to the manufacturer’s guidelines. Always wind timepieces in a clockwise direction. Remove the watch from the wrist to reduce pressure on the stem. Keep it clean. Oil from your skin can build up on a watch. If the watch is water-resistant, clean it occasionally with warm water and mild soap. If the strap isn’t metal, clean only the case. Be sure the degree of water resistance is clearly specified before wearing a watch into water. At least 50 meters (165 feet) of water resistance is recommended. Dive watches should state at least 200 meters (660 feet). A quartz watch should be taken to a jeweler to have the battery replaced before it dies. Dead batteries left in a watch can leak or corrode. No one should try to service or repair a watch unless he or she has specific training. Only an expert jeweler/watchmaker should be trusted to return a watch to working order. Eight Ways to Use a Chronograph So you’re not an airline pilot or race car driver. You still have reasons to use your chronograph for more than the time of day Press the button at the start and again at the stop of any event. Use the hour subdial like a second watch to keep track of time zones – start it precisely when you know hour differences between two zones. Advance the chronograph hand to an hour or minute you want to remember. Move the chronograph hand to cover the minute hand, and you’ll be able to find the elapsed time with a quick glance at the minute hand. When a great idea springs to mind, hit your chrono start button. Stop after a few seconds. You’ll remember it when you see the odd position of the chrono hand. Place the chrono hand on the hour you want to countdown to. When the minute hand gets there, your time is up. “Crash” Chronograph: Start the chronograph when you’re in a fender-bender. You may be the only person able to pinpoint when the other vehicle hit yours. Good Luck: Place the chronograph hand on your lucky number. Source: Dieter Henning, International Watch Co. TAG Heuer introduces its first digital watch, the Kirium Formula 1 multifunctional, shown with a rubber strap. Oakley’s latest wonder, the D-1 digital, is a sport model with alarms, timers, chronograph and dual time zone — all cased in a Kevlar-based material. Baume & Mercier’s newest Capeland S is a certified chronometer available with a steel bracelet or black rubber strap.