June 2001 Feature Platinum Made Simple The look is cleaner, lighter and will stand the test of time. Welcome to the 21st century This year, platinum jewelry is clean and architectural – ornate styles are less important. The economic jitters of 2001 have changed buying patterns. “Consumers want longevity and simplicity in their jewelry so it can be worn for the next 20 years,” says Aaron Henry Furlong, owner/designer of Aaron Henry Designs, Los Angeles, CA. “It has become a less-is-more way of thinking.” The style change is also prompted by skyrocketing platinum prices. Smaller or simpler and have attractive price points for most platinum connoisseurs, around $1,000 or less retail. Because platinum is a financial investment for many, the jewelry must transcend fashion dictates. Despite the minimalist trend, some customers still look to the past for timelessness. Antique-inspired designs with hand-engraving or hammered platinum bead settings haven’t disappeared. “The hand-tooled feel of filigree and the glitter of millegrain against gemstones are still desirable,” says Furlong. “A bright cut around diamonds makes them look bigger, which keeps the piece more affordable.” Colored Gems & Diamonds Gemstones and diamonds in blue, green, violet, yellow, orange, cranberry, pink and red are showcased in the latest platinum jewelry designs because of the striking and beautiful contrast. “Vibrant color against a white background is a natural,” says Sasha Samuels, designer/owner of Sasha Samuels, Portland, OR. Round or cushion cuts for center stones that are 1 carat or larger are most popular. Meanwhile, diamond shapes and sizes run the gamut. “Rounds always have the largest following, followed by princess cuts and baguettes ranging from 0.02 carat for accents, pavé, burnished or channel setting to 2 carats or higher for featured diamonds,” says Judy Singband, marketing manager for Eugene Biro Corp., New York City. Finishes Matte is where it’s at. Brushed, satin, sand or bead-blast finishes will be strong sellers this year. These finishes wear well for customers who have active lifestyles. Trends by Category Because of platinum’s rising price, it’s important to stock jewelry in this metal carefully. Earrings: Hoop earring should be clean and tailored. Keep studs interesting with convertible dangling attachments. Button earrings are making a comeback. Necklaces: Most popular today are neckpieces that may be worn in a variety of ways, transcending trends and ensuring the piece will wear well in the future. Look for collars that are thin and even all around with hidden clasps. Rings: Contemporary yet feminine designs embrace pavé-, bezel- and burnish-set diamonds. Wide and thin bands that can be stacked or worn alone give consumers style and cost options. Bracelets: Designers are embracing fluid, sensual bracelets that are smaller and more tailored than in the recent past. Most popular today are flexible links and sleek, simple designs. Straight-line bracelets with prong-, bezel- or half-bezel settings are gaining momentum. Brooches: Fluid and versatile free-form brooches are appropriate suggestions for customers looking to accessorize a suit jacket. This jewelry category should be lightweight so the fabric it hangs from isn’t damaged. A Look into the Future Designers predict these platinum jewelry trends will take hold this year and continue into the future: Judy Singband, Eugene Biro Corp. “Three-stone ensembles – earrings, necklace and bracelet – will follow the three-stone ring craze. Traditional styling will get a tweak to bring it into the present. Black diamonds will gain attention. Clean, sleek and tailored styling will follow the less-is-more mentality that is not going away.” Aaron Henry Furlong, Aaron Henry Designs “More high-polish metal and fewer gemstones fill the need for simplicity. With platinum prices higher, expect to see thinner pieces. New techniques will be developed to make more affordable, thinner jewelry.” Sasha Samuels “Collections that are versatile, fluid and feminine will become very important in platinum.” – by Lorraine M. O’Donnell, A.J.P. Platinum necklace with diamond accents is from the Vision of Blossoms collection. Also available in 14k or 18k gold. Via America Fine Jewelery Inc., New York City; (212) 302-1218, fax (212) 768-2731. Platinum ring with bezel-set diamonds is from the Solstice Collection. Aaron Henry Designs, Los Angeles, CA; (213) 623-4228, fax (213) 623-7891. Platinum and 18k yellow gold brooch is set with a 3-ct. trillion tanzanite, a bezel-set 0.38-ct. princess-cut diamond and 0.15 carat of round full-cut diamonds. Suggested retail, $7,500. Gordon Aatlo for Norma Jewelers, San Carlos, CA; (650) 593-7528, fax (650) 593-5239. Platinum hoop earrings are set with 0.26 natural fancy intense yellow diamonds and D-F Ideal-cut diamonds. Suggested retail, $5,010. Photo by Ralph Gabriner. Sasha Samuels, Portland, OR; (503) 232-5422, fax (503) 232-4965. Platinum snake chain is set with a 6mm tanzanite and 0.20 carat of full-cut G/VS diamonds. Suggested retail, $4,020. Chris Correia Collection, New York City; (212) 695-4711, fax (212) 564-2477. Platinum and 18k white gold pearl enhancer is set with a 2.60-ct aquamarine and 0.12 carat of diamonds. Suggested retail, $4,800. Judith Conway, Windsor, CA; (707) 838-8760, fax (707) 838-8765. Twisted column cuff links are set with diamond accents and 1.19 carats of square-cut sapphires on the end caps. Suggested retail, $2,300. Dolan & Bullock, Providence, RI; (401) 943-2100, fax (401) 943-4230. Platinum rings feature a 0.94-ct. oval irradiated yellow diamond and a 0.68-ct. marquise irradiated teal diamond. Suggested retail, $2,225 for the ring with the yellow diamond, $1,600 for the one with the teal diamond. Becky Thatcher Designs, Glen Arbor, MI; (231) 334-3826, fax (231) 334-3535. Three dramatically different styles of platinum pendant chain are available in a range of sizes. Also available are bulk platinum chain on rolls and finished pieces cut to any length and finished with platinum findings. MS Co., Attleboro, MA; (800) 675-4657 or (508) 222-1700, fax (508) 222-6449, msco@tiac.net, www.jewelrychain.net. Platinum baby shoes hanging from a platinum safety pin glow with diamond accents. Aaron Basha, New York City; (212) 935-1960, fax (212) 935-9309, www.babyshoes.com. This hook bracelet is crafted in platinum. Suggested retail, $11,950. Pedro Boregaard, New York City; (212) 826-3660, fax (212) 826-3722. A variety of platinum earrings and jackets retail for $243 to $380. The Touch, Waltham, MA; (800) 556-0041 or (781) 894-8133, fax (781) 894-7821, thetouch7@aol.com, www.the-touch..com. Ring at left is made of specially blended and processed 95% platinum, detailed by 24k gold inlay with a 2.70-ct. cushion-cut indicolite tourmaline accented with a 0.40-ct. Trielle™ diamond. The other ring is also platinum and has a 3.50-ct. emerald-cut indicolite seated by the pressure of a 0.85-ct. trilliant-cut yellow sapphire. Steven Kretchmer Design, Palenville, NY; (518) 678-0304. Platinum ring is set with 2.19 carats of G/SI round brilliant and baguette diamonds. Suggested retail, $8,655. Eugene Biro Corp., New York City; (212) 997-0146, fax (212) 764-4506. This trilogy ring is crafted in platinum and features two round yellow diamonds and one white diamond. Damiani, New York City; (212) 210-9246, fax (212) 210-9247.