Professional Jeweler Archive: Diamonds of the Moment

May 2001


Diamonds of the Moment

Smaller sizes and simpler settings take diamond jewelry into a more relaxed and fashionable place

Save the big rocks in huge settings for the serious pieces because fashionable diamond jewelry is all about smaller diamonds and simpler statements. “The interplay of each small diamond makes a statement,” says Lenny Krol, president of KC Designs, New York City. For the increasingly important market of women who buy for themselves, small diamonds offer retail price points ($500-$1,000) allowing for instant gratification.

“People are looking for a cleaner approach to what they are wearing in an effort to simplify life,” says David Silvera of Carol Silvera, Allenhurst, NJ.

Strong ad campaigns help drive the trend of repeated patterns, such as in the Riviera necklace or dimond line bracelet (formerly known as a tennis bracelet). “These designs are simple, clean and classic with lots of symmetry,” says Erica Courtney, designer/owner of Erica Courtney Designs, Los Angeles, CA.

For women drawn to the past, antique-inspired designs are lighter. Gone is heavily detailed jewelry. Side interests and hand-engraving give designs from the past a contemporary edge, as do 18k white gold and pavé.


Bead settings, shared prongs and four-prong settings are important for non-bridal diamond jewelry. These settings allow the diamonds to become the focus. Pavé setting is the best example. “Pavé is a very strong seller, but labor costs can be restrictive. To overcome this, we look overseas for more affordable labor costs,” says Silvera.

For the jewelry itself, platinum has been the metal choice to showcase diamonds for years. But with platinum prices increasing and the strength of the economy in question, consumers want a less-expensive choice for non-bridal jewelry. This jewelry doesn’t need the endurance of bridal jewelry, so there’s a resistance to platinum prices. “People are looking for 18k white or yellow gold because it goes well with spontaneous fashion jewelry,” says Rina Limor, president/designer of J.R. Gold, New York City.

Yellow gold will continue to make inroads, especially in this more trend-driven sector. For added value, consumers are turning to 18k gold instead of 14k.


Square diamonds still dominate fashion-forward jewelry, though many designers are looking for ways to freshen the look. “A princess cut turned on its side offers something unique,” says Courtney.

Up-and-coming diamond cuts include well-made pears and ovals. “These are cuts we haven’t seen for some time, so customers are dying for them,” says Courtney. These cuts lend a flowing aspect to jewelry compared with pointy geometric designs.


Earrings: Diamond earrings are an affordable indulgence for many buyers. For glamour, sell dangling diamond earrings that create movement. Practicality can be had with small studs. Hoop earrings can be as big as bangle bracelets. Anything from 35mm to 60mm is selling in round, heart or oval shapes.

Necklaces: Fashionable diamond necklaces are graceful and elegant. Pavé-set straight-line necklaces, lariats, heart pendants and station necklaces are all strong sellers. Round bezel-set diamonds that form a diamond chain also draw interest.

Rings: In fashionable diamond jewelry, thin stackable bands set with different colors of diamonds and different colors of precious metals are popular. Mix- and-match rings add the versatility today’s women want.

Bracelets: Nothing is more fluid and elegant than an endless line of diamonds. Line bracelets and stackable, slip-on bangles are casually sophisticated for everyday wear.

Brooches: Bold pins, celestial themes and free-form design keep jewelry in this category from looking like it came from Grandma’s jewelry box. However, because some working women are wearing more sweater sets than suits, some designers are responding with smaller brooches and scatter pins.


  • Diamonds mixed with pearls.
  • Diamonds used more as a garnish than as the main dish in fashionable jewelry.
  • Thanks to ad support, anything in a straight-line design.
  • Floral designs in bracelets, earrings, pendants and necklaces.
  • Outlining in diamonds.
  • 18k yellow gold set with champagne or cognac diamonds.
  • The toggle bracelet.
  • Antique cuts such as rose, briolette and diamond beads.
  • Hoops and bangles, which complement each other.

– by Lorraine M. O’Donnell, A.J.P.


Rings, chains and slide pendants are set with heart, oval, marquise and square diamonds in 18k yellow, pink or white gold.

Krieger/KWM Exclusives, New York City; (212) 570-6065, fax (212) 570-6720.

18k white gold heart pendant is covered with diamond pavé.

Elite Designs Inc., Miami, FL; (800) 757-1008, fax (305) 358-0805.

From the Brasilia Carre collection, slightly rounded square bangles are crafted in 18k white or yellow gold. Each bangle consists of two parallel lines embellished with diamonds.

Antonini, Milan, Italy; (39-02) 771-2901, fax (39-02) 7712-9030,

18k gold and platinum necklace features 3.28 carats of white diamonds and 3.80 carats of yellow diamonds. Suggested retail, $14,000.

Superior Diamond Cutters Inc., New York City; (212) 355-6767, fax (212) 355-6708.

14k white gold hoop earrings are set with 1.60 carats of round brilliant diamonds. Suggested retail, $2,850.

KC Designs, New York City; (800) 552-3790 or (212) 921-9270, fax (212) 768-9073.

Platinum ring features a 7.37-ct. pear-shaped yellow diamond surrounded by round white diamonds.

Erica Courtney, Los Angeles, CA; (323) 938-2850, fax (323) 938-8964.

14k gold ring is set with 0.33 carat of diamonds across the top. The sides have four bezel-set canary yellow diamonds totaling 0.12 carat. Suggested retail, $1,197.

R.W. Manufacturing Co., Rochester, NY; (716) 461-4088, fax (716) 461-0716,

Diamond pavé earrings are crafted in 18k white gold.

Damiani, Milan, Italy; in the U.S., (212) 210-9246; fax (212) 210-9247.

14k gold diamond line bracelet has 3 carats of round diamonds. Suggested retail, $5,235.

Namano Inc., Tucker, GA; (770) 934-0360, fax (770) 934-2849,

18k white gold hoop earrings are channel-set with 0.75 carat of diamonds. Suggested retail, $1,800.

Breuning, Lawrenceville, GA; (678) 377-1673, fax (678) 377-1674.

Platinum pendant has a 2.51-ct. fancy yellow kite-shaped diamond, a 1.29-ct. marquise D/FL diamond, a 0.10-ct. cubed diamond and melee diamonds on the sides and back.

Joden Jewelers, Grove City, PA; (724) 458-6710, fax (724) 458-0928.

14k white gold ring features a diamond pavé heart.

Overnight Mountings, Long Island City, NY; (888) 731-1111 or (718) 472-1212, fax (718) 784-2200.

Color-treated diamonds bezel-set in 18k gold and platinum hang from an 18k gold neck coil. Diamonds are colorless, orange, violet, yellow, blue, green and cognac. Suggested retail, $1,000-$5,000 per pendant.

EtiennePerret.Com, Camden, ME; (877) ETIENNE or (207) 236-9696, fax (207) 236-9698,

Photo by S. Crysler.

18k gold cushion-shaped earrings are set with 0.70 carat of diamonds. Suggested retail, $2,450.

Carol Silvera, Allenhurst, NJ; (732) 517-8833.

Lariat features 3.28 carats of diamonds in 18k white gold (suggested retail, $9,000). The earrings at left have 0.62 carat of diamonds in 18k white gold ($1,460). The earrings at right have 0.70 carat of diamonds in 18k white gold ($1,680).

Rina Limor for J.R. Gold Designs, New York City; (800) 999-0583 or (212) 922-9292, fax (212) 922-2992.

Button earrings have 3.05 carats of round brilliant diamonds in 18k white gold. Suggested retail, $10,900. Also available in platinum for $11,900.

Diamonds by Design, Los Angeles, CA; (888) 239-3999 or (213) 239-9999, fax (213) 239-9992,,

14k gold cross pendant is set with 0.50-1.0 carat of diamonds. Suggested retail, $500-$3,000.

Variety Gem Co., New York City; (212) 921-1820, fax (212) 921-1834.

Copyright © 2001 by Bond Communications