Professional Jeweler Archive: Orange Sun Rising

September 2001

Gemstones & Pearls/New Products


Orange Sun Rising

This color trend, still strong, suits the apparel women bought this spring and foreshadows autumn


The focus on orange by apparel and jewelry designers breathes new life into colored gems in matching shades. Orange spessartite, fire opal and orange citrine emphasize the shade of the autumn sun and complement the neutrals found in many basic wardrobes. They also add sparkle to pink, blue, purple and green apparel. A closer look at each:

Orange Spessartite Garnet

The use of garnets can be traced back to the Nile Delta in 3100 B.C., when Egyptian artisans crafted garnet beads or inlay into hand-wrought jewelry. Garnets come in a variety of colors, with rich orange spessartite hailing from the U.S., Brazil, Nigeria, Tanzania, Namibia and Pakistan. According to The Guide, published by Gemworld International Inc., Northbrook, IL, extra-fine-quality Mandarin garnet in the 3-5-ct. range sells for as much as $500 per carat wholesale. The same is true for garnet from Little Three Mine in Ramona, CA. Extra-fine Kashmirine garnet from Pakistan in the 3-6-ct. range sells for as much as $250 per carat wholesale. When not from collector areas such as these, fine-quality garnet can be found for as little as $18 per carat.

Fire Opal

This transparent reddish orange gem comes primarily from Mexico, Brazil, Ethiopia and the U.S. According to The Guide, extra fine goods of 1 to 5 carats are $160-$400 per carat wholesale.

Orange-Hued Citrine

Citrine, a type of quartz, is found in every corner of the earth and is most prized in its golden variety. Brazil gives us the very deep reddish orange Madeira citrine. Citrine, derived from the French word for lemon, is quite affordable. In extra-fine qualities, it’s $30 per carat wholesale in the 3-5-ct. range, says The Guide.

– by Lorraine M. O’Donnell, A.J.P.


18k gold pendants hold Gustav Caesar checkerboard-cut citrines. The pendant at left is $1,300 retail and the gemdrop, $7,400. The pendant at right is $2,500 and gemdrop, $8,000.

Barbara Westwood, Monument, CO; (719) 488-8083, fax (719) 488-8180.

18k green gold ring is set with a 3-ct. Mexican fire opal and four diamond accents. Suggested retail, $2,510.

GJ Designs, Sarasota, FL; (941) 951-6658, fax (941) 365-2577.

This 14k gold pendant holds an 8mm-by-6mm citrine and 0.15-ct. diamond. Suggested retail, $195. Chain not included.

David Connolly, Marbledale, CT; (860) 868-0872, fax (860) 868-7323.

14k gold ring features a 10mm-by-8mm checkerboard Madeira citrine. Suggested retail, $540.

Nancy B & Co., (800) 421-0464 or (310) 836-8842, fax (310) 836-2409.

1.47-ct. princess-cut citrine tops an 18k white gold ring with 0.35 carat of diamond accents. Suggested retail, $900.

Arzy Co. Inc., Los Angeles, CA; (213) 627-7344, fax (213) 627-5560.

The top ring, called the OWN, features a trillion-cut citrine in 14k gold and is $650 retail. The middle ring, the ABAM, holds a pineapple-cut citrine in 14k gold ($800). The bottom ring, ABFR, has a buff-top citrine in 14k gold and sterling silver ($460).

Daunis, Portland, ME; (207) 773-6011, fax (207) 773-3603, daunis@sprynet.com.

18k yellow and white gold hoop earrings are each set with a 6mm citrine and 0.16-ct. diamond. Suggested retail, $1,350.

B. Sholdt Designs, Seattle, WA; (206) 623-2334, fax (206) 682-6204.

This 2.59-ct. onion-cut citrine pendant has 0.15 carat of diamond accents in 14k gold. Suggested retail, $1,720.

Artelle Designs, Minneapolis, MN; (800) 936-3456, fax (952) 926-5420.

18k gold ring holds a 9-ct. dome-shaped citrine and 0.32 carat of diamonds. Suggested retail, $2,750.

Bibigi/ELT, New York City; (212) 750-0054, fax (212) 826-3863.

Pagoda pendant is crafted in 18k white and yellow gold and features a 4.40-ct. Mexican fire opal, 0.20-ct. red spinel and 0.26 carat of diamond accents.

Thomas Dailing Designs, Stevens Point, WI; (715) 341-0411, fax (715) 341-2388, lee@ayersjewelers.com.

14k gold suite features cabochon citrine and cultured pearls. Earrings are $500 retail and the pendant is $350.

Donna Chambers, White Plains, NY; (914) 287-0303, fax (914) 328-7215.

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