Professional Jeweler Archive: Premier Platinum

August 2002

Timepieces/New Products

Premier Platinum

Some platinum timepieces are more than beautiful on the outside

High-end watchmakers made many more platinum models last year than in 2000. Special editions accounted for most of them. Here are several with high-polish platinum cases and innovative technical achievements.

– by Michael Thompson

Never before has a moonphase display moved continuously on a watch. Now with its own movement, A. Lange & Söhne offers the Lange 1 Moonphase, which does not jump forward sporadically but moves without a stop. This reduces the typical error from 44 minutes per month to 57 seconds per month. Suggested retail, $30,500 in platinum, $22,300 in gold.

A. Lange & Söhne, Glashutte, Germany; (49-350) 53-440, fax (49-350) 53-44401.

Glashütte Original’s PanoReserve displays its power reserve in fine guilloche and shows off its own Calibre 65-01 manual movement through a clear sapphire back. A double swan-neck spring balance allows for very fine adjustments. One hundred models will be made in platinum; ongoing models are available in steel and gold. Retail prices start at $6,500 (steel) and rise to about $16,600 (platinum).

Glashütte Original, Weehawken, NJ; (201) 271-1400,

The mechanisms that activate Vacheron Constantin’s “To-and-Fro” calendar and day-of-week displays are visible from the front dial. The platinum case also has a clear sapphire back that reveals the decorated Calibre 1126 R31 movement. Production is limited to 247. Suggested retail, $29,000.

Vacheron Constantin, New York City; (212) 303-5030,

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s limited-edition Reverso Septantieme increases the case size of the series, features a new 18k movement and includes a large date, day/night indicator, eight-day power reserve and small seconds subdial. It’s available with a platinum or pink gold case.

Jaeger-LeCoultre, New York City; (212) 891-2363,

Audemars Piguet’s Concept watch celebrates the 30th anniversary of the company’s Royal Oak. The movement is new, and its case, tourbillon bridge and movement bridge are made of Alacrite 602, a strong alloy used in the aerospace industry. The bezel is titanium. The lower crown selects functions of the main crown. Power reserve indicators display the remaining main barrel turns (one turn equals six hours) plus dynamographe. The watch is water resistant to 1,650 feet.

Audemars Piguet, New York City; (888) 214-6858,

Copyright © 2002 by Bond Communications