February 2002 Gemstones & Pearls/News AGTA Spectrum™ & Cutting Edge™ Honors Extraordinary color and exceptional cut combine to set the trends in colored gemstone jewelry and art Color and cut – essential components of nearly every consumer product – are never more important than in colored gemstones. Color captures the wearer’s imagination, and cut determines how well that color plays to the human eye. To recognize the best use of colored gems in jewelry and to honor the best gem cutters, the American Gem Trade Association has announced winners of its 2002 Spectrum Awards.™ Together, the winning entries establish the trends that will interest your most sophisticated customers this year. The Spectrum Awards have a new look for the new century. Entries are now judged in five fashion categories: Evening, Business/Day, Casual, Bridal and Men’s. First-, second- and third-place and honorable mention awards are presented, as well as manufacturing honors, which recognize outstanding use of natural colored gems and elegance of construction that would be attractive to mainstream production manufacturers. The competition also now includes the Cutting Edge™ division, formerly a separate contest. Entries in this division are judged in six lapidary arts categories: Classic Gemstone, Faceting, Carving, Combination, Pairs and Suites, and Objects of Art. The Platinum Honors division is jointly sponsored by AGTA and the Platinum Guild International. For coverage of that division, see the March issue. Awards will be presented at a dinner dance during the AGTA GemFair this month in Tucson, AZ. Judges for the Spectrum Awards were Alan Revere of the Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts, San Francisco, CA; Jeff Johnson of Johnson Family’s Diamond Cellar, Dublin, OH; Michael Dyber, a gem designer in Rumney, NH; and Bob Ahrens, a design instructor at the Gemological Institute of America, Carlsbad, CA. For information on next year’s competitions, contact AGTA, Dallas, TX; (800) 972-1162 or (214) 742-4367, fax (214) 742-7334. All photos by John Parrish. BEST OF SHOW GREGORY MORIN Silverhorn Santa Barbara, CA (805) 969-0442 fax (805) 969-5535 Sponsor: Silverhorn Setting: Thomas Heys Brooch depicts a Japanese woman with fan. The platinum and 18k red and white gold brooch has Japanese akoya pearls, 5.15 carats of opal, 19.25 carats of black chalcedony, 3.53 carats of sapphire and 0.81 carat of diamonds. BEST USE OF COLOR ALAN FRIEDMAN Alan Friedman Co. Beverly Hills, CA (310) 278-4944 fax (310) 278-5449 Floral brooch/pendant features 8 carats of garnets and 4.47 carats of colorless and fancy colored diamonds in platinum and 18k yellow and rose gold. Evening Division First Place SAHO KINOSHITA Carlsbad, CA (760) 434-3391, phone and fax 18k white and yellow gold necklace contains two natural freshwater pearls and 3.64 carats of diamonds. Pearls are from Kinoshita Pearl. Second Place LARRY SIEGER L.S. Hancock Design Studio Cary, NC (919) 303-1111 fax (919) 303-0063 18k green gold “orchid” ring is topped with a 7.86-ct. tanzanite surrounded by 1.31 carats of demantoid garnets. Third Place BRADLEY D. WEBER Weber Goldsmith Gallery Pebble Beach, CA (831) 626-7600 fax (831) 626-7616 Carved conch shell ring features an 18k yellow gold sleeve, platinum bead-set pink diamonds totaling 0.84 carat and 13 akoya pearls ranging from 2.5mm to 9.5mm. Honorable Mention ALEX SOLDIER Alex Soldier Designs Brooklyn, NY (718) 491-1616 fax (718) 833-2777 Platinum and 18k yellow and white gold snail ring is covered with diamonds, yellow sapphires, Madeira citrines and garnets. Manufacturing Honors SCOTT HODSON Hodson Jewelry Galleries Scottsdale, AZ (480) 488-2296 fax (480) 488-6069 Earrings are rendered in 18k white and yellow gold with 2.72 carats of rubellite tourmalines and 0.05 carat of diamonds. Business Division First Place PAUL DERRICKSON The Jewelers Touch Placentia, CA (714) 579-1616 fax (714) 579-1397 Cutter: Stephen Avery 18k white and yellow gold earrings hold 3.86 carats of spessartite garnets and 1.28 carats of diamonds. Second Place JOHN RIPPE Opalesce Santa Fe, NM (505) 992-1712 fax (505) 992-3502 “Choya” platinum ring, named for cholla cactus, has a 2.02-ct. pink sapphire and eight 2mm blue sapphires. Pink sapphires from Geokey Inc.; blue sapphires from Omi Gems. Third Place CORNELIS HOLLANDER Cornelis Hollander Designs Inc. Scottsdale, AZ (480) 941-1136 fax (480) 994-5932 A 5.43-ct. spessartite garnet tops this 18k white and yellow gold ring with 0.47 carat of diamond accents. Honorable Mention YAROSLAV SHUKEL Aurora Studio Boston, MA (617) 331-2507 Brooch is made of oxidized graduated, bent and interwoven sterling silver tubing with 22k gold accents and features a 13mm-by-27mm meteorite and 0.70 carat of diamonds.0 Manufacturing Honors KIM KOCH Kim Koch Designs Mequon, WI (262) 241-8244 fax (262) 241-1360 18k yellow gold bracelet holds 12.22 carats of garnets. Casual Division First Place DARIUS M. BRASKY Paul C. Lirot Jewelers Madison, CT (203) 245-0320 fax (203) 245-5913 18k yellow gold and platinum pendant features a 30.95-ct. citrine and 0.66 carat of diamonds. Second place BRENDA J. WARBURTON Austin Warburton Ann Arbor, MI (734) 663-3327 fax (734) 665-3994 Manufacturer: Chris Unger Platinum and 18k yellow gold ring holds a 1.66-ct. tanzanite, 1.39-ct. rubellite tourmaline and 0.76 carat of yellow sapphires. Third Place PHILLIP B. DISMUKE Jewelsmith Durham, NC (919) 286-2990 fax (919) 286-4350 4.35-ct sapphire is set into a platinum ring with diamond accent. Gems are from Atlantic Gem Corp. Honorable Mention LINDA POTICHKE Linda Potichke Jewelry Design Laguna Beach, CA (949) 494-6694 fax (949) 497-8514 18k yellow gold pendant features a 4.30-ct. trillion spessartite garnet and 0.70 carat of princess-cut tsavorites. Manufacturing Honors JOHN STEPHAN GARFOLO Stephan-Hill Jewelry Designers San Rafael, CA (415) 459-5808 fax (415) 459-8922 “Paradise Series” 18k yellow gold pendant has a 4.24-ct. buff-top marquise peridot and 0.22 carat of diamonds. Bridal Division First Place ROBERT ACKERMANN Robert Ackermann Inc. Westmount, Quebec, Canada (514) 939-5651, fax (514) 939-5879 “Parallels” ring features a 1.20-ct. antique cushion-cut tsavorite garnet and 0.71 carat of diamonds. The garnet is from Julian Dromlewicg. Second Place MARK SCHNEIDER Mark Schneider Inc. Long Beach, CA (562) 437-0448, fax (562) 437-0593 A 5.56-ct. tanzanite tops a platinum ring that also has 0.54 carat of tsavorite garnets and 0.21 carat of diamonds. Third Place BURDETT A. MILKINS BAM Designs by Burdett A. Milkins Monroe, MI (734) 242-1023, fax (734) 242-1155 18k white gold Rainbow Boundaries™ eternity wedding band has 1.34 carat of rainbow-colored sapphires from Nafco Gems. Manufacturing Honors RONALD DAVIDSON Davidson Designs West Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada (604) 926-4841, fax (604) 926-4798. Platinum and 18k gold ring showcases a 2-ct. pink sapphire, 0.38 carat of blue sapphires and 0.29 carat of diamonds. Gems supplied by Harry Adams. Men's Division First Place PHIL DELANO Delano Designs Glendale, WI (414) 540-6717 Cutter: Kevin Lane Smith 20-ct. andradite garnet tops this 14k white gold ring. Second Place MARK SCHNEIDER Mark Schneider Inc. Long Beach, CA (562) 437-0448, fax (562) 437-0593 Tanzanite Cutter: Stephen Avery Platinum ring features a 7.03-ct. diamondback-cut tanzanite, 1.44 carats of yellow princess-cut diamonds, 1.24 carats of round brilliant-cut diamonds and 0.10 carat of demantoid garnets. Third Place DAVID TROUT Coffin & Trout, Chandler, AZ (480) 763-1300 fax (480) 753-4367 Metalsmith: Wayne Cook 18k white and yellow gold ring with platinum ports from the “Post Modern” collection features an 11.9mm-by-6mm meteorite. Manufacturing Honors JANE WULLBRANDT Joseph M. Menzie Inc./Miranda George Inc. New York City (800) 899-1818, fax (212) 302-7046 18k white and yellow gold cuff links have 2.32 carats of tourmalines and 0.25 carat of diamonds. Cutting Edge – Best of Show PHILLIP YOUNGMAN Los Osos, CA (805) 528-4616 Blue and orange zircons featuring the rose brilliant cut total 170.09 carats. Classic Gemstone First Place JEFFREY BILGORE Oscar Heyman & Bros. New York City (212) 593-0400, fax (212) 759-8612 12.93-ct. emerald-cut unheated Madagascar blue sapphire. Second Place RAY ZAJICEK Equatorian Imports Dallas, TX (972) 250-2055, fax (972) 250-0710 1.41-ct. “Raydiantz” cut emerald. Third Place ALLEN KLEIMAN A. Kleiman & Co. Boulder, CO (303) 440-7478, fax (303) 440-7486 3.18-ct. oval Burma ruby. Faceting First Place JOHN A. RHOADS D&J Rare Gems Ltd. Salida, CO (719) 530-0628 fax (719) 539-5232 15.89-ct. brilliant round flower cut Mozambique pink tourmaline. Second Place JOHN D. DYER Precious Gemstones Co. Zumbrota, MN (507) 732-4262 phone and fax 37.16-ct. split-facet super trillion Pakistani peridot. Third Place JOHN A. RHOADS D&J Rare Gems Ltd., Salida, CO (719) 530-0628 fax (719) 539-5232 58.33-ct. brilliant cushion-cut Brazilian pink morganite. Honorable Mention DAVID A. BRACKNA David A. Brackna Gemcutter Germantown, MD (301) 972-2201 phone and fax 56.62-ct. skewed lozenge cut untreated Tajikistani heliodor (golden beryl). Combination First Place SOOSAI PROSPER Byrex Gems Inc. Toronto, Ontario, Canada (416) 947-1431 fax (416) 947-0279 20.16-ct. “Le Soleil” concave-cut citrine with 65 facets. Second Place THOMAS TROZZO TROZZO Culpeper, VA (540) 829-8494 fax (540) 829-8494 #99 32.46-ct. Snowphia-cut citrine. Pairs & Suites First Place PHILLIP YOUNGMAN Los Osos, CA (805) 528-4616 Blue and orange zircons featuring the rose brilliant cut total 170.09 carats. Second Place MEG BERRY Pala International Fallbrook, CA (800) 854-1898 Two 2-ct. trillion windmill-cut tourmalines & a 4.60-ct. trillion double windmill spessartine garnet. Honorable Mention JEFFREY KRASNER Ballerina Gem Co. New York City (212) 391-8007 35-gem suite of 5mm sapphires in pastel rainbow colors. Carving First Place DON BUFORD Dust Devil Mining Co. Cloverdale, OR (503) 965-7707, fax (503) 965-7706 Carver: William Cox 47.20-ct. Oregon sunstone carving. Honorable Mention KRISTA McMILLAN Vineland, Ontario, Canada (905) 563-8525 15mm-by-57mm carved reverse intaglio green phantom quartz. Objects of Art First Place DALAN J. HARGRAVE Hargrave Manufacturing Co. San Antonio, TX (210) 344-8580 Sponsor: R.A. “Art” Guyon Essence bottle was carved from white to blue-white chalcedony. The 18k white and yellow gold stopper features a 40-ct. carved Lightning Ridge opal, 0.05-ct. pink diamond and 13mm South Sea cultured pearl. Second Place ANGELA CONTY Angela Conty Designs Schenectady, NY (518) 377-2173 Pen features 163.28 carats of black jade, a 0.25-ct. sapphire and a black Tahitian keshi pearl in 18k gold. Third Place ROBERT CHAPLIN Robert Chaplin B.F.A. Vancouver, B.C., Canada (604) 731-0148, fax (604) 732-5669 122.25-ct. obsidian carving represents the North Wind. The 0.03-ct. diamond in the mouth represents the first snowflake of winter.