Professional Jeweler Archive: Dials with Subs

July 2002

Timepieces/New Products

Dials with Subs

From moonphases to calendars, subdials attract attention

The chronograph, generally sporting two or three subdials, has created a standard for the look of a sporty watch. Many watches are sporty even without a chronograph, of course, and many dressy timepieces have subdials. But here are recently debuted chronographs and complicated watches that use subdials for aesthetic and technical reasons.

– by Michael Thompson

Limes (pronounced LEEM-ess), which makes a sporty and dressy line of fine manual and automatic timepieces, adds this chronograph to its Nightflight collection. Inside is a Valjoux 7750 automatic movement held together with a Limes-made case sporting sapphire crystals front and back. Suggested retail, $995.

Limes, Los Angeles, CA; (323) 461-7230,

The 18k Instantaneous Perpetual Calendar with Five Windows and Second Time Zone is new from Roger Dubuis. The RD29 automatic movement inside generates indicators for date, day of week, month, leap year and night/day. It comes with an alligator strap and a second time-zone function near the moonphase display. The watch, available in early 2003, is part of the new Golden Square collection.

Roger Dubuis, Wilkes-Barre, PA; (570) 970-8888.

The times of sunrise and sunset are displayed on Eos, made by master watchmaker Martin Braun and named for the goddess of dawn. Braun makes all his cases as well as the intricate mechanism in the movement. This newest model adds a rare equation-of-time indicator under the date. The Eos line is available in 39mm or 42mm diameter and in several dial colors.

Martin Braun, Austin, TX; (512) 499-0123.

With its curved dial and cushion-shaped case, the new Wenger Epoch is inspired by models from the 1950s. The line includes a model with three hands and a chronograph (shown). It’s sold with leather strap or steel bracelet and comes with black and white or dark blue dials.
Wenger, Orangeburg, NY; (800) 431-2996,
The Dunhillion is one of many new models from a reintroduced line by Dunhill. Designed by Giampiero Bodino, the chronograph is made of brushed stainless steel, antireflective sapphire crystal and optional calfskin leather strap. An automatic three-handed model is available.

Dunhill, New York City; (212) 888-4000,

Ebel’s latest 1911 Chronograph has colorful strap choices, silver dial, oval subdials and a 34-diamond bezel. Inside is Ebel’s Calibre 137 automatic chronograph. It comes in steel or 18k brushed yellow gold.

Ebel, New York City; (212) 888-3235,

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