Professional Jeweler Archive: Fab Four

November 2002


Fab Four

As the popularity of emerald cuts and squares intensifies, four fresh faces make their debut

No fewer than four new diamond cuts sporting squarish outlines have appeared in the marketplace in recent months. All return light well, a selling point for customers who enjoy the simple elegance of angular cuts but wish they had greater light performance. Professional Jeweler’s Robert Weldon, G.G., takes a look at each one.

The Regent Cut™ & The Queen of Hearts™

These two cuts were born at the Atlass Group in Antwerp, Belgium. A joint venture with Horowitz & Atlass, New York City, brings both cuts to the U.S. market. The Regent took more than a year to develop after a customer asked whether the hearts-and-arrows effect achieved in some round diamonds could be shown in a square one. “Rounds are the benchmarks of brilliance,” says Cary Horowitz of Horowitz and Atlass. “But the Regent, seen on a BrillianceScope,™ is equally or more brilliant in some cases because of precision cutting.” The 66-facet Regent is based in part on the Regent Diamond, part of the French Crown Jewels that history texts have long declared the world’s most perfectly cut diamond.

Horowitz and Atlass also developed the Queen of Hearts cut, which has a larger table facet and a more squarish outline. “It’s a great alternative for customers who like princess cuts but want something a bit different,” says Horowitz. “Historically, fancy cuts were developed as a way for diamantaires to make the best use of difficult rough, to get more yield. That’s still valid, but not as critical now. Yield takes a back seat to beauty.”

• Horowitz & Atlass LLC, New York City; (877) 436-2887.

The Cushette™

The Cushette retains the brilliance of traditional princess cuts, despite rounded corners, because of a new cutting technique called the Rosetta Process. The technique cuts Portals of Light™ into the pavilion, which adds brilliance and beauty.

“The inspiration comes from the master of Impressionist art himself, Claude Monet,” says Michael Schachter, president of Diamco, the New York City company that developed the cut. “Monet and others broke away from traditional art by focusing on the meaning of color and light. We wanted a similar break from traditional cutting.”

A brochure explains the philosophy of the Cushette, shows different views of it and also features reprints of Monet paintings. Seth Becker of Becker’s Diamonds & Fine Jewelry, West Hartford, CT, says Cushette is gaining momentum among his customers. “Cushette really gives us a chance to show something very new and very different,” he says. In addition to the brochure, Diamco offers a program with case displays, radio spots and shared print advertising – all at a cost that compares favorably with other brands, says Becker.

• Diamco, Overseas Direct, New York City; (212) 730-2724,

The Spring Cut™

“Emerald cuts in diamonds are often associated with classiness,” says Moy Rosenberg, of M&M Diamond Imports, Houston, TX. “Emerald cuts are contrasty and beautiful, though understated, because the cut lacks fire. Radiant cuts were developed to remedy the lack of fire in square cuts, but have always been difficult to match, because slight differences in the depth percentage of the stones caused one stone next to another one to look totally different.”

In devising the new cut, M&M attempted to bring in the best of both worlds – marrying the finer points of emerald cuts and radiant cuts.

“What we tried to do was to bring a mix between the fire and scintillation of the radiant cut and the classiness of the emerald cut. Because of its style, the Spring Cut tends to look a bit bigger than comparable stones by weight,” says Rosenberg. The Spring Cut has 60 facets (there are 47 in a comparable emerald cut).

“The configuration and number of facets plays into its brilliance,” he says.

The lab-certified diamonds also appear whiter face-up than they did at the time of grading in the lab, a visual advantage some retailers have used when showing consumers diamonds for comparison. “The first few times we thought we were being under-graded by the labs,” Rosenberg recalls. “We found out that the major labs all base their view on the darkest area of a stone. That means our diamonds have to be tilted and viewed through a narrow side to determine color.”

Spring Cut diamonds are accompanied by a certificate of authenticity as well as a certificate by a major gemological laboratory. Each stone is laser-inscribed along the girdle with the brand name and certificate number.

• M&M Diamonds, Houston, TX; (800) 451-0634, www.mmdiamonds .com.

Copyright © 2002 by Bond Communications