Professional Jeweler Archive: Creative Shapes

December 2003

Gemstones & Pearls/New Products


Creative Shapes

It's all about the cutter


With an emphasis on brilliance, depth, polishing and the inner crystal, unusual gem cuts are loved because they make you look twice at a gem you thought you knew. Designers derive inspiration from these cuts and the cutters who create them. “It’s gem cutters such as John Dyer, Michael Dyber and Bernd or Tom Munsteiner who set the path and the precedent for designer jewelry,” says Burdett A. Milkins, designer/owner of B.A.M. Designs, Monroe, MI.

Appreciation of the lapidary artists who create unusual cuts is growing. Cuts such as the Spirit Sun, honeycomb and checkerboard are especially popular because of their play of light.

Display these unusual beauties in rainbow form. If you carry loose gems, cluster them and encourage custom designs.

– by Lorraine M. O’Donnell, A.J.P.

18k white gold Fish Head ring has a 2.89-ct. snowcone-cut Malayan garnet from Tanzania and 0.07 carat of burnish-set diamonds. Suggested retail, $3,600.

Designs by Rita Hyams, San Anselmo, CA; (415) 948-3573, fax (415) 492-0466. Photo by Robert Weldon.

18k pendants feature a 15-ct. amethyst and a 15-ct. blue topaz. Suggested retail, $1,300 each.

Apichart Warrachart, Catskill, NY; (518) 965-0668, fax (518) 943-3109.

Pendant features an 8.93-ct. bicolor amethyst and 0.40 carat of diamond accents in 14k white gold. Suggested retail, $3,000.

Avirom & Associates, Boulder, CO; (800) 456-5958 or (303) 494-5624, fax (303) 494-5745.

18k white gold ring holds a faceted natural turquoise and 0.25 carat of diamonds. Suggested retail, $720.

JewelMak Inc., New York City; (212) 398-2999, fax (212) 398-0721.

18k yellow gold and platinum pendant features a 14.75-ct. citrine cut by Tom Munsteiner accented with Spirit Sun ruby, sapphire and tsavorite designed by Bernd Munsteiner and 0.12 carat of diamonds. Pendant hangs on a 60-strand stainless-steel wire. Suggested retail, $5,620.

Burdett A. Milkins, Monroe, MI; (734) 242-1023, burdett@milkins.com.

Hand-carved heart-shaped coral pendant is set in 18k gold with pavé diamond highlights.

Henry Dunay, New York, City; (800) 888-2525 or (212) 768-9700, fax (212) 944-0308.

14k gold ring features an 8mm-by-6mm concave faceted peridot and 0.06 carat of diamonds. Suggested retail, $595.

Nancy B & Co., Culver City, CA; (800) 421-0464, fax (310) 836-2409.

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