Professional Jeweler Archive: Bezel-Setting Round Brilliant Lab-Created Moissanite

March 2003

Professional Bench/Manufacturing Up Close


Bezel-Setting Round Brilliant Lab-Created Moissanite

As the use of this stone in fine jewelry grows, here are some tips for working with it at the bench


Setting round brilliant lab-created moissanite in bezels is enhanced by a reliable supply of well-cut, durable and evenly proportioned stones. In this project, we will set 11 5mm round brilliant stones into the yellow gold central links of this two-tone inline bracelet.

The bracelet links are cast and have a wall thickness of 1.2mm. The bracelet is assembled, prefinished and prepolished.

Preparation for Setting

Using a precision dial stone gauge, measure each created moissanite to confirm the diameters are 5mm with a tolerance of 0.1mm. Next lay them table-down on a hard flat surface next to one another. View from the side to confirm the crown height and depth of each stone closely match.

Preparing the Bearings

Because each bracelet link is identical and all stones are within tolerance, use an automated burring procedure such as the AllSet by Foredom to create the bearings. This will allow you to bur each bearing to a level consistent in depth in seconds.

The AllSet (A) is attached to a standard handpiece (B) with the prong/bezel guide (C) attached. The high-speed setting bur (D) is slightly smaller than the diameter of the moissanite.
1. Secure the bracelet to your favorite holding device. An ideal product for this is Jett Sett,™ an easy-to-use fixturing compound and bracelet holding tool.
2. Estimate the total depth of the bearing and adjust the setting of the AllSet accordingly. Bur the first bearing and be sure to check the depth as you proceed. Your goal is to remove 45%-50% of the thickness of the bezel wall. The stone’s table should be equal in height to the top of the bezel.

3. Make depth adjustments with the AllSet as necessary. Then bur the bearings, one after the other, using lubrication. Stop burring when the top of the bezel comes in contact with the top of the guide. When finished, all bearings will be prepared identically.

Setting and Finishing

4. Remove all metal fragments, filings and obstructions from each bezel.

5. One at a time, place a moissanite into the new bearing and bend the bezel metal over the stone. To start this process, first secure the stone by partially bending the bezel in four opposing locations.

6. Inspect to ensure the stone is level and then continue by partially bending the bezel metal between the first four points. Finish by working opposite sections and moving the metal incrementally.

7. When you’re finished bending the bezel metal over the stone, the top of the bezel wall should be in full contact with the crown, covering about 10% of the crown.

8. Carefully prefinish each bezel. When finished, the bezels should look identical.

9. Remove the bracelet from the Jett Sett holding tool and clean and finish each link.

– by Mark B. Mann

Charles & Colvard Ltd. sponsors lab-created moissanite educational content. For general information related to moissanite, call Charles & Colvard at (800) 210-4367.

For information related to working characteristics of moissanite at the bench, contact Mark Mann at (406) 961-4426 or 800-210-4367, extension 251; markbmann@aol.com.

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