Professional Jeweler Archive: Ring Remounts

November 2003

Professional Bench/Defining Quality

Ring Remounts

Working with ring remounts demonstrates another aspect of quality in your shop

This installment of “Defining Quality” and “Fine Jewelry Craftsmanship Quality Guide” focuses on the professional assembly of ring remounts. Because of this topic’s importance, it has been revised and updated from one previously published in Professional Jeweler’s Fine Jewelry Craftsmanship series.

Proper Fit & Contact

When settings are soldered onto a ring remount, the two must be fitted together carefully – proper surface-to-surface contact is critical. A precise fit without excess solder is essential to the overall appearance, security and integrity of the finished piece.
Ensure the setting hasn’t been positioned and soldered too high on the wire of the ring mounting, reducing the amount of required contact.

Consistent Alignment of Components

The prongs should have a consistent orientation. In this example, it’s 8 and 2 o’clock. Each setting has the same orientation regardless of its position on the ring.
When the design is free-flowing with a variety of heights, the settings and ultimately the stones should face up consistently.
Settings soldered on a ring should all face up in a similar fashion or should conform to the radius of the ring.

“Cold” Solder Joints

Solder has flowed around the perimeter of the setting where it and the ring make contact. There’s no cohesive bond because of insufficient heat during soldering.

– by Mark B. Mann

Illustrations by Lainie Mann
©2003 Visual Communications

Professional Assembly of Ring Remounts

A. The radius of the base of the setting fits with 20%- 30% contact between it and the ring.

B. The settings have been soldered in the correct position on the wires to ensure adequate contact between the height of the heads and the ring.

C. The joint of the setting and ring shows no visible excess solder and is free of pits.

D. When viewed from the top and side, the setting and prong orientations are consistent.

E. The settings and stones have a consistent face-up orientation.

F. All gemstones are secure and free of abrasions and damage.

G. The detail and pattern of the remount and settings are maintained, free of tool marks, properly finished and polished.

Potential Problems

There is insufficient contact between the setting and the ring. In this example, the contact is less than 5%. The setting could break off during normal wear.
The contact between the setting and ring is minimized when the base of the setting is positioned and soldered too high.
Random positioning of the settings has caused the prongs and gems to be oriented differently.
When the settings were installed, excess solder was used and
the joints are pitted.
The settings were installed unprofessionally. The settings and gems don’t face up consistently.

– by Mark B. Mann

ILlustrations by Lainie Mann
©2003 Visual Communications

This series is sponsored in part by Jewelers of America, (800) 223-0673

Copyright © 2003 by Bond Communications