Professional Jeweler Archive: Dream in Color

April 2004

Diamonds/New Products


Dream in Color

Natural, treated and synthetic choices abound


From apparel to ipod minis, color is everywhere – and diamonds are no exception. There’s no end to the variety. Though you’ll find fewer choices in natural colors, treated or synthetic diamonds are available in blue, yellow, violet, pink, cognac, black, green and other colors. “Some colors sell because women just can’t help it – they like pink and violet,” says Etienne Perret, designer/owner of Etienne Perret & Co., Camden, ME. “Other retailers sell to women looking for colors promoted in the press, such as canary, light blue or pink. Still other colors such as cognac and black sell well to the guys who want a unique diamond piece.”

Colored diamonds can be used in beautiful, unique pieces. A designer can play one color off another or offer the same piece in a variety of colors. “If there is a reason to design jewelry with a colored gemstone, then there is a reason to design with colored diamonds even more,” says Perret. “Colored diamonds give you almost everything other gemstones do, plus diamonds give you brilliance and durability.”

Treated and synthetic fancy colored diamonds are more affordable than natural fancies. “Treated colored diamonds are like a Mazda Miata – it would be great to own a Ferrari, but let’s get real. Most people don’t make that kind of money; even if they did, would they want the responsibility of something with such high value?” asks Perret.

– by Lorraine M. O’Donnell, A.J.P.

point of $ALE

Adam Gorman, G.G., owner of I. Gorman, Washington, DC, and other experts offer selling advice for colored diamonds:

Disclose the differences between synthetic, treated and natural. In natural colored diamonds, color comes from trace elements. A natural colored diamond has not been altered. Treated diamonds get their color through a variety of processes. Synthetics are lab-grown.

Explain that colored diamonds are real diamonds – even if they’re treated.

Tell customers the 4Cs still apply, but explain the differences in color. Fancy colors go past Z on the color grade chart. For example, fancy light yellow, fancy yellow, fancy intense yellow and fancy vivid yellow are light to highly saturated yellow. The more saturated the color, the more rare it is in natural diamonds.

Some cuts work better with colored diamonds than others. Modern radiant and princess cuts are especially popular for fancy-color diamonds because the shape, proportioning and facet arrangement intensify the color.

Talk realistically about price differences. A treated diamond may start at $2,000 per carat. However, a natural diamond may start at $10,000 per carat.


14k white or yellow gold earrings feature synthetic pink, yellow or blue round brilliant-cut diamonds. Suggested retail, $3,000 per carat in yellow, $4,200 per carat in pink or blue.

Chatham Created Gems, San Francisco, CA; (800) 222-2002, fax (415) 397-3466.

Diamond dangle earrings feature white kite-shaped diamonds and round pink, yellow and white diamonds. Suggested retail, $34,000.

Superior Diamond Cutters Inc., New York City; (800) 342-0036 or (212) 355-6767, fax (212) 355-6708.

Platinum and 18k gold ring at left features a cushion-cut diamond surrounded by natural fancy yellow round diamonds. At center, a platinum and 14k pink gold ring holds a natural fancy light yellow diamond and natural fancy pink round diamonds. The platinum and 14k gold bead-set diamond ring has a natural fancy light purplish pink oval center.

Martin Flyer, New York City; (800) 223-0330 or (212) 840-8899,
fax (212) 768-0124.

18k gold bracelet features 3.0 carats of fancy yellow and white round brilliant-cut diamonds. Suggested retail, $6,600.

Kimberley Diamond Co., New York City; (800) 223-4104, fax (212) 791-7731.

Treated colored diamonds circle these 18k yellow, rose or white gold or platinum channel bands. Suggested retail, $1,500-$5,000. Currently available: purple, violet, red, orange, yellow, green aqua, blue, cognac, champagne, black and white.

Etienne Perret & Co., Camden, ME; (800) 426-4367 or (207) 236-9696, fax (207) 236-9698.

Hanging on a black silk cord, this 18k white gold pendant features a 1.27-ct. radiant-cut fancy yellow diamond surrounded by 1.35 carats of round brilliant-cut white diamonds. The pendant has black enamel accents on its bail. Suggested retail, $8,000.

Ritani, New York City; (212) 997-7742, fax (212) 997-7682.

Platinum and 18k ring holds a 1.28-ct. radiant-cut fancy yellow diamond and 0.82 carat of brilliant trapezoid-cut diamonds. Keystone, $11,700.

Adasco Designs Inc., New York City; (800) 632-6685 or (212) 819-0288, fax (212) 768-1041.

18k white gold bracelet features 3.84 carats of natural fancy colored diamonds. Suggested retail, $27,000.

David Levy Diamonds & Fine Jewels Inc., New York City; (212) 398-8952.

18k gold and platinum rings are set with white and natural fancy yellow diamonds. Suggested retail, $20,000+.

Gem Platinum, New York City; (800) 356-3192, fax (212) 308-3874.

The Edward Mirell Titanium Collection now includes Gemesis synthetic diamonds.

Spectore Corp., Deerfield Beach, FL; (800) 422-0220 or (954) 481-8422, www.spectore.com.

Copyright © 2004 by Bond Communications