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| April 2004
Feature Amazing Grace Gold jewelry is graceful and body-conscious this season With the increased price of gold, the trend in gold jewelry has moved significantly toward lighter designs. The look is often big and bold without the weight, creating scale without volume through the use of electroform, wirework and other techniques. “Designers are making great use of negative space,” says Duvall O’Steen, manager of jewelry public relations and promotion for the World Gold Council, New York City. “Perhaps because of the higher price of gold, they can’t afford to waste it.” But price increases don’t mean style is suffering. As designers continue to revisit gold basics, they discover new ways to redefine the golden oldies. “Adjustable necklaces, jewelry that is ergonomic and user-friendly: the trend is about gesture and grace, with forms representing the curves of one’s body,” says Jordan Schlanger, designer/owner of Jordan Schlanger, New York City. The Line on Finish Antique-inspired designs often feature richer gold looks and worked styles. Designers seem to focus on finely etched – almost individually scratched or brushed – finishes with or without patterns, giving the pieces added value. Other important finishes include granulation, beading, filigree and soft hand-etching and engraving. “These finishes often take a highly skilled goldsmith to execute,” says Barbara Heinrich, designer/owner of Barbara Heinrich Studio in Rochester, NY. “Consumers love it because of the comfortable but expensive look they get for the money.” Diamonds & Gemstones Diamonds and colored gemstones also play their parts in adding value to gold. Ruby, sapphire, garnet, emerald, rutilated quartz, aquamarine, topaz, citrine, moonstone and diamonds are used often with gold today because consumers want color, and that desire doesn’t stop with gemstones. At recent trade shows, pink gold showed up at every turn, mostly as accents mixed with white gold. “Designers still use quite a bit of pink gold, however, retailers tell me consumer demand has not yet responded to the trend,” says O’Steen. Hot Styles Look for the following sales winners in these jewelry categories: Earrings: Hoops with removable drops, smaller chandelier earrings and sleek skinny drops. “Design elements should be sexy, not clunky and chunky or painful,” says Schlanger. Necklaces: Unusual or geometric links, long sleek lariats, pendants with meaning, modern paper clip chain links and openwork or flat designs inscribed with messages. “Geometrics are still prevalent but with a softer edge, curved surfaces or a slightly amorphous twist,” says O’Steen. Rings: A bold look of six to eight thin stackable rings in fun shapes or with small stones or one huge cocktail ring with or without a center stone. Bracelets: Stackable bangles or one large cuff, along with bracelets flexible enough to gently clasp the wrist. Brooches: Free-form or organic designs such as branches or flowers. Whimsical motifs are still strong too. – by Lorraine M. O’Donnell, A.J.P.
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