Professional Jeweler Archive: Fancying Shapes

June 2004

Diamonds/New Products

Fancying Shapes

Unusual cuts cultivate personal style

The style and flair of designer jewelry spills over into unique diamond shapes, and several fancy cuts are at the forefront. “Marquise, ignored for so long, is now in great demand, and the emerald cut still shows strength,” says Sasha Samuels, designer/owner of Sasha Samuels, Portland, OR. “We’re getting a wonderful response to the exotic Contex and Spirit Sun cuts out of Germany. We also see growing interest in raw diamond crystals of quality. Antique cuts such as rose, European and cushion also remain popular for their understated brilliance and romantic appeal.”

– by Lorraine M. O’Donnell, A.J.P.

point of $ALE

To help sell fancy diamond shapes more easily, William L. Boyajian, designer at Port Royal Jewelers, Naples, FL, offers these suggestions:

Take a Look. Before you sell jewelry, understand how it looks with a woman’s features. Take notice of her face, neck and fingers. Short fingers don’t carry a marquise well. A rectangular face looks good with round hoops, which emphasize and elongate. A round face needs straight dangle earrings, not studs. And long necks look good in chokers.

Know Your Shapes. When a customer looks for something extraordinary, be well-versed on all diamond shapes. Three-stone rings look good when combining geometric shapes, but it’s important to know what shapes blend well. For example, if your customer loves marquise diamonds but has short fingers, add a pear-shaped diamond on each side of the marquise to visually shorten it. Adding a half-moon on each side of a square diamond will take the bulk out of the square so it won’t appear so massive. These are little visual tricks that can’t be achieved with a round diamond. If you have a customer who can’t make up her mind between a round or square diamond, show a cushion cut. This cut offers the best of both worlds.


0.40 carat of round and tapered baguette diamonds top this 14k white gold band.

Mercury Ring Corp., Englewood, NJ; (800) 223-0930 or (201) 569-1070, fax (201) 569-1538.

18k white gold wedding sets feature round, trapezoid and bullet-shaped diamonds. Suggested retail, from $716 for the semimounts.

A. Jaffe, New York City; (800) 223-0553, fax (800) 628-4183.

Platinum and 18k gold ring features 2.30 carats of fancy yellow trapezoid diamonds, a 5.01-ct. emerald-cut center white diamond and 0.22 carat of diamond accents on the mounting. Suggested retail, $92,150.

Christopher Designs, New York City; (212) 382-1013, fax (212) 768-8978.

18k white gold cuff links with 1.65 carat of princess-cut diamonds and 0.30 carat of rubies are $6,930 suggested retail.

Baroka Creations Inc., New York City; (888) 768-0527 or (212) 768-0527, fax (212) 869-1553,

A 3.5-ct. oval diamond is flanked by two Russian Phoenix-cut diamonds totaling 1.28 carats in a mounting with 0.74 carat of diamond melee. Suggested retail, $38,000. Mounting only, $8,450.

Sasha Samuels, Portland, OR; (503) 232-5422.

18k white gold bracelet is set with 8.12 carats of diamonds. Suggested retail, $21,000. Matching ring is available.

Lady Heart Collection, Rockville, MD; (800) 922-3426, fax (301) 816-2996.

The 0.63-ct. round center diamond nestles in a bed of 1.21 carats of smaller round diamonds and 2.15 carats of tapered baguettes in 18k gold. Suggested retail, $21,000.

Oscar Heyman & Bros., New York City; (212) 593-0400, fax (212) 759-8612.

Copyright © 2004 by Bond Communications