Professional Jeweler Archive: Emboldened Gold

September 2004


Emboldened Gold

Gold jewelry shows off a mixture of materials, surface details and rich color

A new generation of gold jewelry embraces materials such as leather, rubber, wood, colored plastics and enamels.

It looks different too. “Today’s gold goes beyond yellow with new colors such as brown gold, black gold, blue gold, purple gold and red gold,” says designer Chris Aire, owner of Chris Aire, Los Angeles, CA.

Favored styles shift away from the big geometric designs, chandelier and dangle earrings that dominated the early part of this decade. “The current trends seem to be a wire-wrapped look, lots of texture, fabric look-alikes, patterns on surfaces, ethnic and antique looks, open work, larger links, cut-out designs, and paisley and amorphous shapes in large open links,” says Duvall O’Steen, manager of jewelry public relations and promotion at the World Gold Council, New York City.

Color Coding

White, yellow or pink gold can create a rich look when set with colored gemstones. “People are talking about greens, especially emeralds; but they are still in love with pink sapphires, morganites, pink tourmalines, orange and purple sapphires and cognac diamonds set in yellow gold,” says Pamela Froman, designer and owner of Pamela Froman Fine Jewelry, Los Angeles, CA.

“White gold is still used mostly with diamonds, but pink stones and blue sapphires are big sellers when set in solid white gold. It’s not so much one particular stone as it is the combination of tones blending in one piece.”

Pink gold is on the rise again, found mostly paired with white gold.

Finishing Touches

Matte, brushed, hammered or filigree textures are in fashion, and some designers still use a combination of finishes. “Depending on the design, I use a matte finish and then highlight certain areas with high polish so there’s more depth,” says Deborah Miller, designer/manufacturer at Deborah Harrison Miller Jewelry, New York City.

Ethnic overtones spill over into jewelry, and techniques such as granulation, filigree, beading, surface textures and patterns, wire-wrapping and oxidizing are in use too.

The Looks by Category

Earrings: Long, simple geometric looks with Art Deco or Japanese influences are popular. So are long, sleek drops, chain detail, open-work, textured finishes and disc shapes.

Necklaces: Large pendants and layered large open links in longer lengths are important this season. Textured finishes, wire wrapping on pendants and wire-wrapped mesh necklaces are popular, as are bold color pendants mixed with pearls or dog tags.

Rings: Women are making a big statement by stacking smaller rings or wearing one enormous one.

Bracelets: All types of links are popular. Layering bracelets – whether chain, hard ornate bangles or hinged cuffs – creates a bigger, bolder look.

Brooches: Large pins feature flower, bow, bird, butterfly, heart and Art Deco motifs.

– by Lorraine M. O’Donnell, A.J.P.

18k gold circles feature diamond accents. Rings are pink, yellow and white gold.

Aaron Henry Designs, Los Angeles, CA; (213) 623-4228.

14k gold wave pattern spring bracelet is $450 suggested retail.

Ed Levin Jewelry, Cambridge, NY; (518) 677-8595.

14k gold clover pendant is from the Love Collection.

Andin International, New York City; (212) 886-6000.

Red Gold™ triangle is accented with a row of diamonds.

Chris Aire, Los Angeles, CA; (213) 688-0900, fax (213) 688-2880.

18k gold earrings with 0.50 carat of round brilliant diamonds are $3,100 suggested retail.

Deborah Harrison Miller Jewelry, New York City; (917) 453-6117, fax (212) 265-6241.

18k gold, steel and diamond suite features rings and bracelets that stretch to fit.

Jarretiere for Christina Termine, Boston, MA; (617) 325-0500, fax (617) 325-0500.

14k yellow, white and pink gold rings are $200-$225 suggested retail.

De-ani Inc., Monrovia, CA; (888) 343-3264.

18k gold folded pendant is $505 suggested retail.

Kubik, Denver, CO; (303) 733-1366, fax (720) 570-8027.

14k expandable jewelry is designed to be fashionable as well as versatile and ranges from ring size to wrist size.

First Class Trading Inc., New York City; (877) 787-8946, fax (888) 231-4616.

10k gold suite has 12k green and rose gold leaves. Suggested retail, $79.

South Dakota Gold, Rapid City, SD; (800) 523-4209, fax (800) 348-7087.

10k gold ring has 12k green and rose gold leaves. Suggested retail, $178.

Mount Rushmore Black Hills Gold, Rapid City, SD; (605) 343-2226, fax (605) 343-4217.

Trinity cuff links are available in white or yellow gold.

Gubelin, Luzerne, Switzerland; (41-41) 429 1515, fax (41-41) 429-1530.

Photo by Jay Lawrence Goldman Photography
Tri Crush link bracelet is 18k pink, white and green gold with 0.10 carat of diamond accents.

Pamela Froman Fine Jewelry, Los Angeles, CA; (323) 954-7436, fax (323) 954-7437.

14k gold jewelry suite features diamond accents.

Cherie Dori, Sunrise, FL; (800) 226-8816.

14k gold 12 Days of Christmas charm bracelet is $1,700 suggested retail.

Rembrandt Charms, Buffalo, NY; (800) 828-7840, fax (800) 828-7811.

18k woven gold strands are accented with high-polish gold balls.

Aurafin, Tamarac, FL; (954) 846-8099.

18k Nobel gold bracelet features a diamond multipoint star.

H. Stern, New York City; (212) 655-3930.

Copyright © 2004 by Bond Communications