January 26, 2005
JA Show Trends
Though the weekend's East Coast snowstorm made for travel problems and a slow first day, JA New York persevered at the Jacob K. Javits Convention Center Jan. 23-25, showing lighter colors and smaller styles across all jewelry categories. Necklaces were the style story of the show.
A revived Y-necklace is set closer to choker length and has a longer drop, often adorned with stations of alternating large and small diamonds, and those set with rectangular or kite-shaped dangles and briolettes were the dominant neck adornments. A large diamond pendant on a longer white metal chain, 20 inches or longer, surrounded by pavé has supplanted the small solitaire choker seen for the last few years. Pavé open circle, oval or swirl pendants lend a large diamond look at lower price points, as do pavé grids and bar-set pendants.
In earrings, linear styles have larger diamonds at the bottom and sometimes have smaller diamond stations. Chandeliers are shorter, narrower and simpler, taking on a deco inspiration.
Fancy colored diamonds, especially yellow, were mixed with white pavé in three-stone jewelry. Right-hand rings had either large stones surrounded by pavé accent or were pavé circular or oval swirls.
Gems & Pearls
Gemstone jewelry lightened up this year, using smaller gems mixed in dusty desert tones of yellows, pinks, light greens and purples. Necklaces and earrings mixed citrine, pink tourmaline, garnet, iolite, light blue topaz and amethyst. Pearls followed suit, with light green and golden pearls creating fresh accents to darker peacock and black shades. Different tones were more randomly mixed on strands, rather than the light-to-dark strands seen at the beginning of the decade.
As in diamond jewelry, the tighter Y-necklace looked fresh in colored gems and pearl jewelry. Pendants and right-hand rings with single gems were adorned with diamond pavé for pop. The lariat is a particularly popular style for pearls, dangling one or two large pearls, often black and white combinations, also with pavé on rondeles or the necklace. Bracelets using multiple pearls set in a grid of metal approximate a cuff and are also using pavé.
White metals continue to overshadow yellow gold, which is mounting a comeback, and rose gold is used more often to create a pleasingly warm setting for desert-toned gems. Circular motifs are popular in metal-only jewelry as well, often used as links in neklaces. The circles are different sizes and often mix shiny and matte finishes. The pendant trend continues here, in the form of rectangular dog-tags and derivatives such as squares, hearts and stylized flowers.
by Liz Smutko